Peaks of the Balkans Classic Route

Day 1: Arrival in Albania/Shkodra

We pick you up from Tirana for the two-hour transfer to Shkodra. Here you receive your trip information and have a chance to discuss all the details of your self-guided walk in the Balkans. Afterwards, enjoy a stroll through Shkodra’s pedestrian area lined with elegant townhouses, a reminder of the city’s prestigious past. Immerse yourself in the city’s Italian flair, join the buzz of the bazaar to buy dried fruits and other snacks, or visit Rozafa Castle with its fabulous views and hint of what’s to come on your upcoming journey through the Albanian Alps. Choose one of many restaurants for an early dinner, getting a good sleep in preparation for an early start into the mountains.

• Transfer from Tirana to Shkodra (90-120mins)
• City tour with notes and maps
• Overnight at Shkoder boutique hotel (Hotel Tradita or similar)

Day 2: Koman Lake and Valbona Valley | 7km

An early start is followed by a scenic transfer through the Drin Gorges to Koman Lake and ferry (58km/2h). On board, you will see that the picturesque reservoir loops through sheer rock walls and is the most amazing route into the Albanian Alps. The ferry stops several times to pick up local people en route from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46km/3h). By car you continue further into the highlands of Valbona National Park, stopping for lunch in the town of Bajram Curri. You reach Valbona Valley by early afternoon, a place that is famous for its stone tower houses. This warm-up walk for tomorrow’s higher elevations follows a crystal clear stream through ancient beech forests, speckled with wild strawberries. Along the way, keen swimmers can take a dip in an ice-cold river or a secluded small lake.

• Walking for the day: 7km, 3h, ↑250m ↓50m
• Transfer by public minibus (06:30 pickup time) or private car to ferry port of Koman (90mins)
• Boat ride through the canyons of the Koman Lake (3h)
• Transfer from Fierze via Bajram Curri (optional lunch stop) to the trailhead in Valbona (75mins)
• Warm-up walk and optional swim (3h)
• Overnight at Valbone guesthouse / private ensuite (Vila Dini or similar)
• Meals included: Breakfast, lunch, dinner

Day 3: Across the Persllopi Pass to Cerem | 14km

Today you tackle the first and one of the longest ascents of the trek. Winding up your way to the mountainside, you are rewarded with views of the highest peaks of the Albanian Alps. The Persllopi Pass (2,039m) marks today’s highest point, and the border with Montenegro is marked by the country’s highest peak, Mount Kollata (2,534m). Walking past a unique wind cave through a karst labyrinth, you return to Albania, with even more spectacular panoramas, en route to the isolated village of Cerem. Without a mobile phone signal or electricity, it remains the last outpost before true wilderness begins. Hot, home-cooked meals, warm shower, and the hospitality of your hosts make up for the small lack of traditional tourist comfort. If the weather doesn’t permit a crossing of the Pass, you can walk a shorter route through Mount Kollata Canyon to reach the guesthouse.

• Walking for the day: 14km, 7:39h, ↑1200m ↓950m
• Transfer: 5mins
• Luggage transport
• Overnight in Cerem (Kujtim Gocaj guesthouse or similar/ shared room)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 4: From Cerem to Doberdol | 16km

Here you start hiking towards the first border crossing. Enjoy forest fruits, admire colourful flora and breathtaking views of Mount Kolata (2,534m). Reaching the rim of Gashi River canyon, follow a high route through the nature reserve’s conifer forest. Here mountain slopes are speckled with small alpine pastures, Balqin being only one of many where you can stop for coffee or raki. Your destination is the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1,750m) where animals graze freely and local people still live in harmony with nature. Staying in simple shepherd huts, swap some of the traditional tourist comforts for traditional warm hospitality. After a home-cooked dinner, relax by the bonfire for a view of the stars and learn more about the region’s shepherding lifestyle.

• Walking for the day: 16km, 7h, ↑1250m ↓650m
• Transfer from Valbone to Cerem (50mins)
• Overnight in Doberdol (Leonard Uka Hut or similar/ shared room)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 5: Doberdol – Three Border Peak –  Milishevc | 18km

Wishing farewell to the hosts, you climb out of the valley towards Mount Tromedja/Trekufiri (2,366m), where the borders of three countries merge and you have sweeping vistas of the solitary borderlands. To the left lies Montenegro’s evergreen valley of Babino Polje and, to the right, Kosovo’s highest peak Mount Gjeravica (2,656m). The ancient path at the edge of Bjeshkët e Nemuna National Park crisscrosses the border ridge below the 2,500m high peaks of Mount Marijash and Mount Rops, offering panoramic views into both Kosovo and Montenegro. Cross the Roshkodoli Pass and start your descent to Milishevc, a remote summer village located in a peaceful pine forest. The traditional wooden mountain huts provide refreshments, hot meals and a well-deserved rest after a long day.

• Walking for the day: 18km, 7h 12mins, ↑825 m ↓1100 m
• Luggage transport
• Overnight in Milishevc (Lojza Guesthouse or similar/ shared room)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
  

Day 6: Milisevac – Reke e Allages – Mount Hajla – Drelaj | 10km

A morning transfer takes you on a bumpy, 1h 30mins ride to the northern part of the Bjeshkët e Nemuna National Park. Today’s trailhead is in Reka e Allages, another alpine village at the edge of the country. Across meadows and blueberry-covered trails, you ascend through a dense pine forest to the base of Mount Hajla (2,403m). Here follows several steep and trail-less routes to the peak, Multiple very steep and partly trail-less routes lead to the peak that forms the border with Montenegro.  From the top of the 300m high cliff, views reach far into the neighbouring country and city of Rozaje. The ascent is optional, and you may opt out to keep the day short, mellowing in a meadow and enjoying a rest. Chances to spot rare plants like Edelweiss or the endemic Albanian Lily are very high here. From the base, the walk continues at a high altitude along a now unused road, to the highest of the thirteen Rugova villages, Pepaj. Walking through a rocky gully, circled by tall pines, you will catch a glimpse of the scenic hamlet of Drelaj.

• Walking for the day: 10km, 4h 12mins, ↑525 m ↓600 m
• Transfer: 1.5h
• Luggage transport
• Overnight in Drelaj (Guesthouse Shqiponja or similar/ shared room)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 7: Across the Jelenka Pass into Babino Polje | 15km

After a 45mins transfer to the trailhead, the route climbs through pine forest to the emerald lake of Liqenat (1,850m), where you can see the highest point of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, the Jelenka Pass (2,272m). Passing a second lake, you tackle the long ascent towards the Pass. Caravans have used this route since ancient times to move silver and other goods to and from the coast. Take a well earned rest at the top, with stunning views of Plav, Theth and Valbona. Follow the level path to Ravno Brdo Pass (2,178m) with fine views of more rugged peaks as well the lush green valley of Babino Polje below. Descending through the valley, you pass a hut or two before reaching the scattered settlement of Babino Polje. As you descend, the settlement of Babino Polje comes into view, where you will be staying in simple but very welcoming mountain huts with fantastic Montenegrin home-cooking to fill your boots.

• Walking for the day: 15km, 7h 48mins, ↑1150 m ↓1050 m
• Transfer: 45mins
• Luggage transport
• Overnight in Babino Polje (Eko Katun Hrid or similar/ shared room)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 8: Through Grbaja Valley to Vusanje | 12km

The Grbaja Valley is one of the most awe-inspiring in the Balkans. A morning transfer past Lake Plav leads into a narrow valley, wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2,461m). Arguably one of the most rugged and dramatic peaks in the Prokletije Mountains, it’s a dream for many climbers. Ascending through a shaded fairytale beech forest, you reach an alpine meadow enveloped by multiple peaks. The connected ridge trail has several panoramic viewpoints, culminating in the highest two mountains of Popadija and Taljanka (2,056m). A steep descent takes you back onto the shaded forest path and, once back down at the valley floor, there are many traditional inns with cold beers to celebrate your achievements. You are then transferred to a family-run guesthouse in Vusanje, where a stroll to the nearby waterfall is a fitting finale to an exciting day.

• Walking for the day: 12km, 6h 30mins, ↑950m ↓950m
• Transfer: 1.25h + 30mins
• Luggage transport
• Overnight in a guesthouse in Vusanje (Vucetaj or similar/ shared room)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 9: From Vusanje to Theth | 11km

Leaving Vusanje, you start walking up the 26km-long glacier-shaped Ropojana Valley. At a karst spring called Oko Skakavice, an ice-cold river is born from melting snow high up in the mountains. Walking past Gjeshtare Lake, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once tightly-sealed borders of former communist Albania. Coming through the forest, the mountain terrain opens onto a large alpine meadow speckled with shepherd shacks and an abandoned military post. Trek up to to Peja Pass (1,711m) and then down to Theth, the valley in the heart of the Albanian Alps. Reaching the bottom of the valley, there’s a local watering hole where you can ask the owner for a lift to your guesthouse. Alternatively, you may continue along the largely traffic-free 4×4 track into the centre of the village.

• Walking for the day: Hike 1: 11km, 5h, ↑650 m ↓900 m or hike 2: 9.5km, 6h 30mins, ↑1000m ↓1000m
• Luggage transport
• Overnight in a guesthouse in Theth (Pavlin Polia or similar/ shared room)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 10: Via the Grunas waterfall to Nderlysa/Tirana | 8km

A walk through the village and its lush green fields reveals the full extent of Theth. Visit its iconic church and ‘lock-in’ tower or kulla to learn more about the history of blood feuds and Kanun, local traditional laws. This point also marks the trailhead to Nderlysaj. The path ascends to Grunas Waterfall and drops again to a cliff above the 50m-deep Grunas Canyon. A bridle path leads you along the river to Nderlysaj where you can cool down with a glacial swim. A two hours scenic transfer takes you across Thorja Pass (1,630m) into the Valley of Boge and along Shkodra Lake, followed by another transfer to Tirana. The capital city represents a modern and very different side of Albania to the one you have experienced. Bring your day and Balkan Mountains highlights adventure to a close with dinner and a drink out in the chic Blloku district.

• Walking for the day: 8km, 2h 39mins, ↑150m ↓400m
• Transfer: 4.5h
• Luggage transport
• Overnight at a comfortable hotel in Tirana (Hotel Villa 60 or similar)
• Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch

Day 11: Departure

Time permitting, explore the cultural highlights of Tirana. Sip an espresso in one of many charming cafes, or shop for special treats at the lively New Bazaar. To learn more about Albania’s communist past, Bunkart 2 and House of Leaves are excellent and only a five minutes’ walk away from Tirana’s main Skanderbeg Square. Your Balkans Mountains adventure in Albania ends with a 40mins transfer to the airport.

• Depending on departure time possibility to further explore the capital
• Complimentary transfer to Tirana airport: 40mins
• Meals included: Breakfast

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Recommended airport for this trip is Tirana. A complimentary private return transfer to Tirana airport is included in the trip cost (one arrival and one departure transfer per party).

It takes a long time, but a growing number of our travellers who are choosing not to fly, you can get to Albania by train and ferry, via Italy. The best source of information on how to do this is the train guru, Man in Seat 61. It’s all part of the adventure!