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Trails of Albanian Alps


The Trails of Albanian Alps is a self guided walking holiday designed for intrepid travellers eager to discover the Albanian Accursed Mountains’ beauty at their own pace. The Albanian Alps offer breathtaking natural scenery and the best hiking through some of Europe’s last untamed natural locations and wilderness. From your starting point at historic Shkoder on Lake Skadar, you’ll have the chance to visit Rozafa Fortress. Your journey to the heart of the Accursed Mountains is an integral part of the Albanian Alps experience and includes a ride on the Koman Ferry (considered one of the world’s great boat journeys).

The tour offers the chance to visit two of the most spectacular valleys: Valbona and Theth National parks. Both are dominated by towering mountains and include a walk through the Valbona Pass, along an old mule trail with breathtaking panoramas of the Accursed mountains. There’s also a hike to the Peja Pass in Theth with spectacular views of Mount Arapit, the “Albanian Matterhorn”, with its magnificent 800m sheer rock face. Included in the itinerary is a chance to visit the Albanian Blood Feud tower in Theth and the Blue Eye karst spring. The Trails of Albanian Alps hikes include rugged mountain terrain and take you through beautiful mountain valleys, alpine meadows, and remote villages surrounded by the majestic peaks of the Albanian Alps. The return journey includes a scenic drive over the Terthoria Pass to the lowlands and onto Albania’s capital Tirana for some sightseeing.


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Day 1: Arrival in Albania/Shkodra

Your driver will welcome you at the airport in Tirana or Podgorica. You can gather first impressions while transferring to the hotel close to Shkodra’s centre. If the weather allows it, you have the choice to swim at the Balkans’ biggest lake or visit Rozafa Castle. Learn about its legend and enjoy fabulous views which excite your curiosity for the days of travel through the Albanian Alps. In the city, the cafés burst with people who flock for a stroll in the pedestrian area. Lined with bourgeoisie townhouses, a reminder of the city’s rich past, it has a certain Italian atmosphere. Immerse in the bazaar’s buzz at the Marubi photo library in Albania’s past, visit the museum, or enjoy an espresso with the locals. When daylight fades, you can choose between restaurants that offer carefully crafted traditional meals. On the next day, you are heading off to the Albanian Alps!

  • Complimentary transfer from Tirana or Podgorica airport to Shkodra (90 min)
  • Check-in at a boutique hotel in Ottoman Villa, bicycles available free of charge
  • City tour with notes and maps
  • Overnight at Shkoder boutique hotel (Hotel Tradita)

Day 2: Koman Lake / Into the Accursed Mountains | 7 km

You rise early for the transfer through a scenic gorge to Koman Lake (55 km/1:30 h). The picturesque reservoir loops like a Norwegian fjord through sheer rock walls and is considered a highlight of the Alps. The custom-made ferry stops at several points to pick up locals from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46 km/ 3 h). After lunch, you travel by minibus past traditional villages, composed of wooden shingle-covered stone houses, into the highlands and the Valbona National Park (35km/1:15h). On a first warm-up walk, you continue on foot along the crystal-clear stream and quiet berry-lined trails through the forest to the secluded Xhemes Lake for a swimming break. The walk ends at your cosy accommodation in a small hamlet. You will have itchy feet when you see the jagged peaks from the terrace; the next day will be “the day”.

  • Walking for the day: 7 km, 3 h, ↑250 m ↓50 m
  • Transfer by public minibus (6:30 am pickup time) or private car to ferry port Koman (90min)
  • Boat ride through the canyons of n Lake (3h)
  • Transfer from Fierze via Bajram Curri (optional lunch stop) to the trailhead in Valbona (75min)
  • Luggage transport by car
  • Warm-up walk with swimming opportunity (3h)
  • Overnight at Valbone Hotel / private ensuite (Vila Dini or  Guesthouse Kol Gjoni)
  • Meals included: Breakfast, lunch, dinner

Day 3: Valbona – Queen of the Mountains | 12 km

You start your hike to Kukaj, an isolated hamlet where only two families reside, below bunkers that once protected the border and are now scattered in the riverbed. The windy path takes you over lush meadows ablaze with the colours of various spring flowers to a shepherd hut at 1650 m. In the communist period, this was a no-go area and the building used as a military barrack. Admire the wild and romantic jagged mountain scenery, sample fresh milk products should the shepherd be present, or climb higher to an old crossing at the Montenegrin border.

At 2040 m, a weathered border pyramid is a reminder of the isolation Albania once endured; from here, views reach the most dramatic parts of Montenegrin Prokletije. Catching the last glimpse at the Alps’ highest peak Jezerca (2694 m) you descend on a different path to another guesthouse. When daylight fades, you can watch the alpine glow over dinner in the idyllic garden.

  • Walking for the day: 12 km, 5-6 h, ↑750 m ↓700 m
  • Hike to hamlet Kukaj and over flower-rich meadows to shepherd hut on 1650m, return on another trail to the guesthouse in Rragam – extension to Montenegrin border (+2h)
  • Luggage transport by car
  • Overnight at guesthouse Rragram** (private ensuite)
  • Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 4: The Grand Crossing: Valbona to Theth | 15 km

Accompanied by a local and a mule that carries your load, you set out for the transfer hike across Valbona Pass (1811 m) – another highlight and the highest point of your journey. After passing the village Rragam few steep segments need to be tackled. You can pause regularly near springs and on colourful meadows to enjoy the splendid views. Reaching the pass, the surrounding peaks appear on par, and sweeping views of both valleys fascinate even the seasoned traveller. Enjoy the picturesque landscape during a lunch break ahead of the descent to Theth. The fairy-tale beech forest provides cover from the sun in the afternoon for you. By the time the woods thin out, Mt. Arapi (2217 m) is visible, and soon the village houses are reached. Spread below are the different hamlets. On a broad path, you enter another charming guesthouse in the centre of the village.

  • Walking for the day: 15 km, 6-7 h, ↑750m ↓1125m
  • Short transfer by car to the trailhead
  • Hike on a caravan route accompanied by horsemen across the Valbona Pass to Theth
  • Luggage transport on a horse
  • Overnight at Guesthouse Theth / private ensuite (Bujtina Polia)
  • Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 5: Peja Pass / Meadows above the Clouds | 7-15 km

Today you have the choice between the Peja Pass (at the northern end of the valley below the Matterhorn of Albania, Mt. Arapi) or the panoramic trail to the Meadow of Deneli.

  • For the hike up the Peja Pass, we recommend an early start and using transport to and from the trailhead; otherwise, add 4km or one h walking time each way. The one-way transfer is 20€, return 30€. The trail starts near the source of the Thethi River and follows an ancient caravan path.
  • To reach Deneli, you start from the guesthouse and walk through the green Ulaj neighbourhood. After crossing the river the ascend leads through light forest and on a path in the cliffs to the football field size plain in the middle of the mountains.

Both routes return the same way, and you stay in the previous night’s guesthouse.

  • Option 1: Peja Pass: Hike on the caravan route to the karst plateau, which can be shortened one hour each way with an optional car transfer (not included, payable on-site), 7-15 km, 6-8 h, ↑950m ↓950m
  • Option 2: Field of Denelli: Hike on a cliff path to the shepherd hut on a mountain plateau, 10 km, 6-7 h, ↑1000m ↓1000m
  • Option 3: Shorter walks up to 4 h within the valley
  • Overnight in the previous night’s accommodation (Guesthouse Theth (private ensuite))
  • Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 6: Theth – In the Heart of the Albanian Alps | 8 km

A walk through the village and the green gardens reveals the full beauty of Theth. Visit the iconic church, well-kept fields, and dive into the ” kanun ” history at the lock-in tower that offered protection for men threatened by blood feuds into the “kanun” history. It is the perfect place to learn about the highland law code of Leke Dukagjini, its origins, impact and present-day relevance.

Onward along the water channels, you ascend to the waterfall. On a cliff above the river, archaeologists discovered stone-aged terraces. You can rest there, enjoy a picnic lunch and gaze into the adjacent 50m deep Grunas Canyon. Along the river, a well-worn bridle path leads downstream to Nderlysa, where you stay on a farmstead. You can use your free time to sample mulberries, grapes, and plums in the garden, harvest corn and milk sheep with the family, learn to cook a typical dish, explore the surroundings, or swim.

  • Walking for the day: 8 km, 3-4 h, ↑150m ↓400m
  • Walk through the village to the waterfall, canyon and blood feud tower. Hike on the bridle path to Nderlysa. Free afternoon with swimming possibility and many other options
  • Luggage transport by car
  • Overnight at a guesthouse in Nderlys / private ensuite (Bjeshka Guesthouse)
  • Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner

Day 7: The Blue Eye. Tirana or Shkodra | 9 km

The hike through the canyon leads to a karst spring called “Blue Eye”. The bravest can dip in the icy waters while butterflies swirl around you – truly a hidden oasis to relax at. Without mobile phone coverage, electricity, and road access, busy everyday life seems completely forgotten. After a meal at the guesthouse, the minibus takes you to the Edith Durham Memorial, over a scenic pass road to the Boga Valley and Shkodra (3 h).

Depending on the time of your flights (and the selected airport) you can choose to spend the last evening of your trip in either Shkoder or Tirana.

If you’d like to spend the evening in Tirana:
You change cars in Shkodra and continue for another 90 minutes. In the capital, you can visit museums, admire historic buildings and explore the “blloku” district. Once the living quarters of politburo élite turned into a chic upmarket neighbourhood packed with boutique shops and cafes. Tirana starkly contrasts the rural areas of Albania you explored in the Accursed Mountains. Your day concludes with a dinner; you recall the past week of travel and celebrate a successful and memorable journey through Albania.

  • Walking for the day: 9 km, 3-4 h, ↑275m ↓275m
  • Return hike along the river to a karst spring
  • Transfer by public minibus (1-2 pm departure) over the Thoria Pass (1645m) to Shkodra and eventually to Tirana
  • City tour with notes and maps.
  • Overnight at Shkoder boutique hotel or Tirana – depending on your flights.
  • Meals included: Breakfast, lunch

Day 8: Departure on Onward Travel

  • Depending on departure time possibility of further exploring the capital
  • Complimentary transfer to Tirana or Podgorica airport (1.5h – 2h)
  • Meals included: Breakfast

What to Expect


Accommodation includes a boutique 3-star hotel in Shkoder, a welcoming hotel in Valbone, and several characterful guesthouses in the mountains. We have carefully hand-picked all places and regularly monitor their quality. We have tried to choose accommodations that offer friendly service, clean and comfortable rooms and local flavour.

Click to view default accommodations

Hotel Tradita, Vila Dini, Guesthouse Kol Gjoni, Bujtina Polia, Bjeshka Guesthouse, Vila 60

Hotels and guesthouses are subject to availability. In case a particular hotel is fully booked for your desired dates it will be replaced with a hotel of equal value and quality level; sometimes you will need to spend the night in a different building in close vicinity to the main building. While we try to arrange accommodations with en-suite bathrooms, this might not be possible on this particular trip on all days, especially in the high mountain. Exact accommodation details will be provided to you upon booking confirmation.


Meals are included as detailed in the itinerary: 5 days in the mountains full board with picnic lunch package and 2 days in towns breakfast only. When not included, dinner is available either from the restaurant in your hotel or restaurants and taverns in the village/town near your hotel.

Difficulty & terrain

The tour is suitable for active hikers with a moderate level of fitness. Some stages include extended steep ascents and descents and terrain, which is rugged and rough underfoot (read more about difficulty grades). Most – but not all – of the trails are well-marked and signposted. We strongly advise you to follow only marked trails and never try to shorten the path through unknown and unmarked terrain. We will provide you with detailed road notes, maps and GPS tracks, and you can call our 24/7 local assistance phone number anytime.

When to go

This trip is available from June to end-September. The best time for walking is between July and mid-September when the weather is generally stable. Some residual snow patches may be earlier in the season, but this will not require special equipment or skills. On request, snow cover permitting, we could also organise this trip during the second half of May. The flexibility of self guided holidays means that there are no fixed dates, and you can start your trip on any date during the season.

Getting there

FCO up-to-date travel advice

Recommended airports for this trip are Tirana or Podgorica. Complimentary private return transfers to these airports are included in the trip cost (one arrival and one departure transfer per party).



  • 7 overnights as detailed in the itinerary (2 nights in hotels, 5 nights in guesthouses)
  • 5 days full board, 2 days B&B
  • Luggage transfers when changing hotels (one piece of luggage per person*, max 15 kg)
  • Complimentary airport transfers (Tirana or Podgorica, one arrival and one departure transfer per party)
  • Arrival briefing
  • Detailed route notes, maps (1 x per room) & GPS tracks
  • 24/7 phone assistance by our local office/representative

*Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of soft baggage (duffle or backpack) with a maximum weight of 15 kg is permitted. We can safely store your extra luggage in Tirana or Shkodra.


  • Airfare and connecting land transfers other than Podgorica and Tirana
  • Lunches and dinners on Days 1 and 7
  • Travel insurance (required – get a quote online)
  • Personal expenses
  • Any other items not explicitly listed as included

Options, extras & supplements

  • Single-room accommodations are not available on this tour
  • This tour is not available for solo travellers