Walking the Full Ruta dels Indiketes

Day 1: Arrive in Llançà

Llançà is a fishing port located on the Costa Brava, between Cap de Creus and the French border. Stroll along the narrow alleys in the town’s historic centre or spend some quiet time on one of the many beaches of its 7km coastline.

• Accommodation: Hotel La Goleta or similar in Llançà

Day 2: Llançà – Cadaqués | 27.1km

Start your walking tour with a challenging stage that crosses the coastal area of Cap de Creus Natural Park. On the first part of the walk, you head to the 8th-century ruins of the medieval town of Santa Creu de Rodes and the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes. Then, continue on through Selva de Mar and Port de la Selva, before checking out Salvador Dalí’s house in Port Lligat and arriving in Cadaqués. Cadaqués, a whitewashed coastal town surrounded by mountains was a favourite of Picasso and Dalí.

• Walking for the day: 27.1km, 7-8h ↑1,726m, ↓1,725m
• Accommodation: Hotel Blaumar or similar in Cadaqués

Day 3: Cadaqués – Roses | 16.2km

Today’s walk is a shorter stage that passes through Cap de Creus Natural Park, where there are Middle Neolithic graves and engravings with petroglyphs of ancestral Indiketes. Also, at the end of the route, near Roses, there are many menhirs and dolmens, among them the Dolmen de la Creu d’en Cobertella, the largest megalithic monument in Catalonia, dating back to between 3,500 and 3,000BC. Finish the day in front of the church of Santa Maria in Roses, where we recommend visiting La Ciutadella Museum and archaeological site to learn more about the history of the Indiketes.

• Walking for the day: 16.2km, 4-5h ↑1,095m, ↓1,101m
• Accommodation: Hotel Marina or similar in Roses

Day 4: Roses – Castelló d’Empúries | 26.4km

A fairly flat stage, that takes you through three towns: Palau-Saverdera, Pau and Vilajuïga. In Palau-Saverdera, there are remains of the Neolithic settlement of Ca n’Isach (4,600BC) as well as a view of the Gulf of Roses. At the end of the day, after crossing part of Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park, arrive at Castelló d’Empúries, the old county capital near the mouth of the Muga River in the Gulf of Roses. The town centre holds a rich architectural heritage, which includes the 14th-century Gothic church of Santa María, Ajuntament de Castelló d’Empúries, Casa Gran and Pont Vell amongst others.

• Walking for the day: 26.4km, 5-6h ↑381m, ↓372m
• Accommodation: Hotel Palau Macelli or similar in Castelló d’Empúries

Day 5: Castelló d’Empúries – L’Escala | 25km

This is a completely flat and quite easy day of walking, which crosses the southern area of Aiguamolls de l’Empordà Natural Park. Along the way, walk through the towns of Sant Pere Pescador and L’Armentera. Before finishing your day in the fishing village of L’Escala, you go through Sant Martí d’Empúries, where there are ruins of the ancient Greek and Indikete City of Emporion. L’Escala town is also very famous for its fine anchovies.

• Walking for the day: 25km, 5-6h, ↑192m, ↓193m
• Accommodation: Hotel L’Escala Centre or similar in L’Escala

Day 6: L’Escala – Torroella de Montgrí | 23.1km

Begin the day by heading south along the coast, following signs for the GR92 to Riells beach, perfect for a morning swim. We then recommend a visit to the hermitage of Santa Caterina (circa 1392). You get stunning views from the Montgrí Castle and, for the more daring, head down to Cau del Duc (which involves scrambling), a prehistoric cave occupied by Neanderthals around 300,000 years ago. Today’s final destination, Torroella de Montgrí, was originally a royal port for the Kings of Aragon before a new port was founded at Palamós. The town retains its medieval core and walls and hosts a market every Monday.

• Walking for the day: 23.1km, 5h ↑743m, ↓729m
• Accommodation: Hotel Molí del Mig or similar in Torroella de Montgrí

Day 7: Torroella de Montgrí – Peratallada | 27.2km

Today’s flat stage goes through the towns of Gualta and Llabià before reaching Sant Andreu, where the ruins of what was the capital of the Indiketes, the ancient city of Indika, are located. Continue along Camí de Empúries (a very old path) to the towns of Ullastret and Canapost. Your last stop for the day is the medieval town of Peratallada, declared a Historic Artistic Site for being one of the most important and best-preserved centres medieval architecture in Catalonia. The name Peratallada comes from carved stone, which can be seen both in its defensive walls, castle and moat.

• Walking for the day: 27.2km, 6-7h ↑378m, ↓374m
• Accommodation: Hotel El Cau del Papibou or similar in Peratallada

Day 8: Peratallada – Begur | 16.2km

A short walking day, perfect for visiting the villages of Sant Feliu de Boada and Pals before arriving at Quermany Petit, an ancient Indikete settlement (an oppidum). Further along, reach Quermany Gros Peak (222m), and take in the views. Today’s walk ends in Begur, where there was also an Indikete settlement. At the heart of the Emporda district, Begur and its beaches, colonial-style houses, narrow streets and alleyways are among the most beautiful spots on the Costa Brava. Do not miss visiting the medieval castle overlooking the town, offering spectacular views.

• Walking for the day: 16.2km, 4-5h ↑577m, ↓414m
• Accommodation: Hotel El Petit Convent or similar in Begur

Day 9: Begur – Palamós | 21.7km

Today, walk alongside Tamariu beach, once a fishing village and now a tourist area, before a coastal walk along Camí de Ronda which brings you to Calella de Palafrugell. Continue on to visit the Indiketa ruins of Castell and then past S’Alguer beach, bringing your day to a close in the coastal town of Palamós.

• Walking for the day: 21.7km, 7h, ↑1,069m, ↓1,256m
• Accommodation: Hotel Marina or similar in Palamós

Day 10: Palamós – Sant Feliu de Guíxols | 18.1km

After walking along the Sant Antoni de Calonge promenade, the coastal trail takes you past coves, capes and islets as far as the small town of Playa d’Aro. Continue on through the chic urban area of s’Agaró as far as El Fortím, an Iberian settlement from the 4th century BC. Your day comes to a close in Sant Feliu de Guixols.

• Walking for the day: 18.1km, 6-7h, ↑661m, ↓673m
• Accommodation: Hotel & Spa Eden Roc or similar in Sant Feliu de Guíxols

Day 11: Sant Feliu de Guíxols – Santa Cristina d’Aro | 16.7km

Head to the 17th-century shrine of Sant Baldiri before arriving at Plana Basarda, where there was once an Indikete settlement, inhabited between the 4th and 1st centuries BC. Continue the route to visit Cova de Sa Tuna, a hand-excavated cave dating back to the Indiketes and the menhir of Can Llaurador before coming to Santa Cristina d’Aro.

• Walking for the day: 16.7km, 8h, ↑822m, ↓792m
• Accommodation: Hostal Barnes or similar in Santa Cristina d’Aro

Day 12: Santa Cristina d’Aro – Calonge | 21.6km

Today’s walk is classified as difficult due to the distance and uneven terrain. The route first leads to the town of Romanyá de la Selva, home to the Dolmen de la Cova d’en Daina, considered one of the most important in Catalonia. Continue along the path of the Ruàs Caves where many prehistoric graves can be found, as far as the location of the former Indiketa town of Castellbarri. Continue along the path to end the day in Calonge.

• Walking for the day: 21.6km, ↑1,477m, ↓1,495m
• Accommodation: Hotel Mas 1670 or similar in Calonge

Day 13: Calonge – La Bisbal | 22.4km

Today’s walking stage crosses the mountain range of Les Gavarres. First, walk among olive groves and stop to visit the shrine of Santa María de Bell-lloc. Then continue along the path to reach the Romanesque church of Santa Coloma de Fitor. Finally, the route leads to Fonteta, just before the final point of the walk, La Bisbal, the capital of the Baix Empordà region.

• Walking for the day: 22.4km, ↑976m, ↓964m
• Accommodation: Hotel Mar de Tasmania or similar in La Bisbal

Day 14: La Bisbal – Verges | 28.2km

Start by heading to the old town of Castell d’Empordà before continuing on to Casavells, Parlabà and Rupià, and later pass by Castell de Foixà. The route then enters an area with numerous buildings and farmhouses, most of which have now been converted into summer residences. Stop for a visit at Sant Romà de Sidillà, a pre-Romanesque church (7th century) and finally cross the River Ter to arrive at Colomers, for the last 6km, to tonight’s accommodation in Verges.

• Walking for the day: 28.2km, ↑367m, ↓376m
• Accommodation: Hostal Alberana or similar in Verges

Day 15: Verges – Bàscara | 24km

Leaving Verges, head to Les Olives through fields and pine groves until you reach Vilopriu. After passing in front of the monumental building of the town hall and the church of Sant Pere continue to Pins. Next, pass through Camallera, Saus, Vilaür and Calabuig, before reaching Báscara, the end of the stage.

• Walking for the day: 24km, ↑543m, ↓510m
• Accommodation: Pensió Fluvià or similar in Báscara

Day 16: Bàscara – Lladó | 26.6km

This stage will take you from the flat area of the region to the foot of a mountain. Walk towards Romanyà d’Empordà, then follow signs to Pontós. Leaving this small town behind, the walk leads to the Indiketa settlement of Puig Castellar, an ancient oppidum (7th century BC). The route then leads to the Romanesque church of Sant Nicolau, following through Canelles and Navata before arriving in Lladó.

• Walking for the day: 26.6km, ↑683m, ↓551m
• Accommodation: La Casa de Lladó or similar in Lladó

Day 17: Lladó – Sant Llorenç de la Muga | 16.7km

Start by heading to the town of Cistella and, shortly after, look out for the medieval village of Vilarig and its castle. Continue on to Terrades, a town famous for its cherries and, when in season (May – July), the local market is bursting with them. Continue on through pine forests, before arriving at the medieval town of Sant Llorenç de la Muga.

• Walking for the day: 16.7km, ↑822m, ↓792m
• Accommodation: Hostal de l’Aigua or similar in Sant Llorenç de la Muga

Day 18: Sant Llorenç de la Muga – Albanyà | 19.4km

Take the metal walkway out of Sant Llorenç de la Muga, which leads to the chapel of Sant Antoni, before crossing the river via the stone bridge. The route then continues along the mountain to reach Bauma d’en Noguer cave, inhabited in the Neolithic period. Later the path takes you to the almost abandoned town of Lliurona. End the day by descending the stony path to Albanyà where you stay in a campsite.

• Walking for the day: 19.4km, ↑1,703m, ↓1,649m
• Accommodation: Taiga Bassegoda Park or similar in Albanyà

Day 19: Albanyà – Maçanet de Cabrenys | 17km

Continue travelling through the mountain landscapes, walk through San Feliu de Carbonills before continuing up to Mare de Déu del Fau, at 949m. Descend to a small 10th-century church of Sant Pere dels Vilars. Continue until a crossing that takes you over the Arnera River as on to Molí de l’Olivet, then finally to Maçanet de Cabrenys. A few metres downstream there is a natural pool called the Gorga de les Dones, which is open to the public.

• Walking for the day: 17km, ↑1,620m, ↓1,485m
• Accommodation: Hotel Els Caçadors or similar in Maçanet de Cabrenys

Day 20: Maçanet de Cabrenys – La Jonquera | 25.7km

Today walk is categorised as difficult due to its length and uneven terrain, taking you through the Massif de les Salines, and the highest point of the Ruta dels Indiketes, marked by Mare de Déu de les Salines Sanctuary (1,136m). Descend to La Vajol and continue to Agullana, where you can visit a small museum of a necropolis from the Indikete period. From here it is only 5km to the end of the day’s walk in La Jonquera.

• Walking for the day: 25.7km, ↑1,327m, ↓1,584m
• Accommodation: Hotel Tramuntana or similar in La Jonquera

Day 21: La Jonquera – Cantallops | 27.2km

This stage may be the most difficult of the trip. First, go up to Trofeus de Pompeu, the point where the Via Augusta and Via Domitia converge. Enter France for a while through the town of Le Perthus. After passing Salt de Fitor waterfall, continue up to the remains of Sant Pere del Pla de l’Arca, one of the first Romanesque-style churches in the world. Continue to the Sanctuary of Mare de Deu de Requesens as far as your last destination in the town of Cantallops.

• Walking for the day: 27.2km, ↑2,208m, ↓2,116m
• Accommodation: Hotel Can Xiquet or similar in Cantallops

Day 22: Cantallops – Espolla | 19.4km

Today’s route goes through an area full of prehistoric monuments (dolmens and menhirs) that can be visited by making a few small detours. Pass through the wine-producing town of Capmany, and continue to Sant Climent Sescebes and Vilartolí. Your day comes to a close in Espolla, a town dedicated to cultivating olive and grape vines.

• Walking for the day: 19.4km, ↑340m, ↓423m
• Accommodation: Can Salas or similar in Espolla

Day 23: Espolla – Llançà | 27.3km

The last walking route of the tour is one of the longest on this trip, starting by heading to the 8th-century monastery of Sant Quirze de Colera. Along the way, you encounter three pre-Romanesque hermitages lost in the mountains (Sant Martí de Vallmala , Sant Silvestre de la Valleta and Sant Genís del Terrer) as well as other prehistoric monuments. The walk ends back in the coastal town of Llancà.

• Walking for the day: 27.3km, ↑1,543m, ↓1,652m
• Accommodation: Hotel La Goleta or similar in Llançà

Day 24: Departure

Departure after breakfast.