Overview
This short, self-guided holiday walking in the Accursed Mountains over six days is a very exciting way to delve deeply into the awe-inspiring and untouched landscapes of the Albanian Alps. Also available for solo travellers, this is a natural adventure that takes you into Theth National Park, over the iconic Valbona Pass (1,811m) and to the icy waters of Blue Eye natural springs. Staying at a wonderful mix of hotels and mountain guesthouses, this is a trip into Albania at its most authentic.
- Historic Shkoder and Rozafa fortress
- Accursed Mountains
- Koman Lake ferry ride
- Theth National Park
- The Grand Crossing- the hike across the Valbona Pass (1,811m)
- Tower of Theth – Albanian blood feud tower
Click to view map
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Albania/Shkodra
You are met at Tirana airport in Albania or Podgorica in Montenegro. En route to Shkodra, you can swim at the Balkans’ biggest lake or visit Rozafa Castle. In Shkodra, enjoy cafe life, elegant architecture, the buzz of the bazaar and myriad museums and galleries. We also offer bikes free of charge.
- Complimentary transfer from Tirana or Podgorica airport to Shkodra (90mins)
- Check-in at a boutique hotel in Ottoman Villa, bicycles available free of charge
- City tour with notes and maps
- Overnight at Shkoder boutique hotel (Hotel Tradita)
Day 2: Koman Lake – Accursed Mountains | 7km
An early start today as you are transferred to Koman Lake which is often compared to a Norwegian fjord because of the way it cuts into the sheer rock of the mountains. Take a 3h ferry trip across the lake to Fierze. After lunch, travel by minibus past traditional villages into Valbona National Park. On a first warm-up walk, you follow a crystal-clear stream and through the forest to Xhemes Lake, perfect for a swimming break. The walk ends at your cosy accommodation in a small hamlet.
- Walking for the day: 7km, 3h, ↑250m ↓5m
- Transfer by public minibus (06.00 pickup time)
- Boat ride across Koman Lake (3h)
- Transfer from Fierze via Bajram Curri (optional lunch stop) to the trailhead in Valbona (75mins)
- Overnight at Valbone Hotel / private ensuite (Vila Dini or Guesthouse Kol Gjoni)
- Meals included: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 3: Valbona – Queen of the Mountains | 12km
Start your hike to the isolated hamlet of Kukaj. The windy path takes you over lush meadows ablaze with the colours of various spring flowers to a shepherd’s hut at 1,650 m. In the communist period, this was a no-go area and the building was used as a military barracks. Continue on up to an old crossing at the Montenegrin border at 2,040m, marked by a weathered border pyramid, with panoramic views over the Montenegrin Prokletije. You can see Mount Jezerca (2,694m) as you descend on a different path to your next guesthouse.
- Walking for the day: 12km, 5-6h, ↑750m ↓700m
- Extension to Montenegrin border (+2h)
- Overnight at guesthouse Rragram (private ensuite)
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
Day 4: The Grand Crossing: Valbona to Theth | 15km
Accompanied by a local guide and a horse that carries your luggage, today’s the day to hike across Valbona Pass (1,811m), after a short transfer to the trailhead – another highlight and the highest point of your journey. After passing the village of Rragam, a few steep segments need to be tackled. There are plenty of places to rest by natural springs or in flower-filled meadows with panoramic views. Reaching the Pass, you are rewarded with sweeping valley views, perfect for a lunch stop. Start your descent to Theth, walking through shady beech forests, taking in views of Mount Arapi (2,217m) all the way to your next charming guesthouse.
- Walking for the day: 15km, 6-7h, ↑750m ↓1,125m
- Short transfer by car to the trailhead
- Hike on a caravan route accompanied by horsemen across the Valbona Pass to Theth
- Luggage transport on a horse
- Overnight at guesthouse in Theth / private ensuite (Bujtina Polia)
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
Day 5: The Blue Eye – Tirana or Shkodra| 9km
The hike through the canyon leads to a karst spring called Blue Eye. Water lovers can take a dip in the icy waters while butterflies swirl all around this true oasis. After a meal at the guesthouse the minibus takes you to the Edith Durham Memorial, over a scenic pass to Boga Valley and Shkodra.
Depending on the time of your flights (and the selected airport) you can choose to spend the last evening of your trip in either Shkodra or Tirana.
If you’d like to spend the evening in Tirana:
You change cars in Shkodra and continue for another 90mins. In the capital, there are myriad museums, galleries and the you can visit museums, admire historic buildings and Blloku District is always a favourite.
- Walking for the day: 9km, 3-4h, ↑275m ↓275m
- Transfer by public minibus (13.00-14.00 departure time) over the Thoria Pass (1,645m) to Shkodra or onto to Tirana
- City tour with notes and maps.
- Overnight at Shkoder or Tirana hotel- depending on your flights (Hotel Tradita or Vila 60)
- Meals included: Breakfast, lunch
Day 6: Departure
- Depending on departure time possibility to further explore the capital
- Complimentary transfer to Tirana or Podgorica airport (1.5h – 2h)
- Meals included: Breakfast
What to expect
Accommodation includes a boutique 3-star hotel in Shkoder, a welcoming hotel in Valbone, and several traditional guesthouses in the mountains. We have carefully hand-picked all places and regularly monitor their quality. They have been carefully selected based on a variety of criteria including their location, warm hospitality, fine local food or commitment to responsible tourism.
Accommodation
Click to view default accommodations
Hotels are subject to availability. In the event of a particular hotel being fully booked for your chosen dates, we will replace it with a hotel of equal value and quality level. We will provide exact accommodation details to you upon booking confirmation.. In rural areas, sometimes you will need to spend the night in a different building in close vicinity to the main building.
Meals
Meals as specified, mostly full board with picnic lunch package. When not included, dinner is available either from the restaurant in your hotel or restaurants and cafes in the village/town near your hotel.
Difficulty and terrain
The tour is suitable for active hikers with a moderate level of fitness. Some stages include extended steep ascents and descents and terrain, which is rugged and rough underfoot (read more about difficulty grades). Most – but not all – of the trails are well marked and signposted. We strongly advise you to follow only marked trails and never try to shorten the path through the unknown and unmarked terrain. We will provide you with detailed road notes, maps and GPS tracks, and you can call our 24/7 local assistance phone number anytime.
When to go
This trip is available from June till end-September. The best time for walking is between July and mid-September when the weather is generally stable. Earlier in the season, there may be some residual snow patches, but this will not require any special equipment or skills. On request, snow cover permitting, we could also organise this trip during the second half of May. The flexibility of self-guided holidays means that there are no fixed dates, and you can start your trip on any date during the season.
Getting there
Recommended airports for this trip are Tirana or Podgorica. Complimentary private return transfers to these airports are included in the trip cost (one arrival and one departure transfer per party).
Inclusions
Included
- 5 overnights as detailed in the itinerary (2 nights in hotels, 3 nights in guesthouses)
- All breakfasts, 4 lunches and 3 dinners
- Luggage transfers when changing hotels (one piece of luggage per person*, max 15 kg)
- Complimentary airport transfers (Tirana or Podgorica, one arrival and one departure transfer per party)
- Arrival briefing
- Detailed route notes, maps (1 x per room) & GPS tracks
- 24/7 phone assistance by our local office/representative
*Please note that suitcases are not suitable for transport on horses and only one piece of soft baggage (duffle or backpack) with a maximum weight of 15 kg is permitted. We can safely store your extra luggage in Tirana or Shkodra.
Excluded
- Airfare and connecting land transfers other than Podgorica and Tirana
- Lunches on days 1 and 6, dinners on days 1, 5 and 6
- Travel insurance (required – get a quote online)
- Personal expenses
- Any other items not explicitly listed as included
Options, extras and supplements
- If you’re travelling in a group, a supplement applies to group members who would like to have a room of their own in Tirana or Shkodra
- This holiday is available for solo travellers; a supplement will be charged as accommodation and luggage transfer costs are not shared (solo travellers will be accommodated in single rooms wherever possible)
- Extra nights in Tirana or Shkodra before/after the trip
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