Overview
This Peaks of the Balkans Highlights trip is a self-guided walking holiday between Albania and Montenegro, the main thrust of which is walking in the Accursed Mountains, which are much more accessible than their name suggests. With jagged peaks to look up at in awe throughout, navigate these remote landscapes on natural thoroughfares such as Valbona Valley, or on a boat ride across Koman lake.
Using a pack horse to carry your bags you are free to wander, or look on in wonder at the Gashi River Reserve, the flower-filled meadows of Doberdal Valley or Mount Tromedja, a peak that overlooks three borders. In Montenegro, you are rewarded with Prokletije National Park, some superb wild swimming in Lake Hrid, and an energetic ascent of Taljanka and Popadija double summits.
After a celebratory swim in the glacial pools of Nderlysaj, you conclude your journey with a cultural hit in Albania’s capital city of Tirana.
If you would like to enrich your experience by joining an international group with an English-speaking local tour leader, you can check our guided itinerary here.
- Boat across Koman Lake to Valbona National Park
- Hike beyond borders through the Accursed Mountains of Albania & Montenegro
- Experience the local way of life with an overnight stay in a shepherd’s hut
- Ascend the panoramic peaks of Mount Tromedja (aka Trekufiri), Hajla, Taljanka and Arapi (optional)
- Grbaja & Ropojana Valley
Click to view map
Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Albania/Shkodra
We pick you up from Tirana for the two-hour transfer to Shkodra. Here you receive your trip information and have a chance to discuss all the details of your self-guided walk in the Balkans. Afterwards, enjoy a stroll through Shkodra’s pedestrian area lined with elegant townhouses, a reminder of the city’s prestigious past. Immerse yourself in the city’s Italian flair, join the buzz of the bazaar to buy dried fruits and other snacks, or visit Rozafa Castle with its fabulous views and hint of what’s to come on your upcoming journey through the Albanian Alps. Choose one of many restaurants for an early dinner, getting a good sleep in preparation for an early start into the mountains.
Day 2: Koman Lake and Valbona Valley | 7km
An early start is followed by a scenic transfer through the Drin Gorges to Koman Lake and ferry (58km/2h). On board, you will see that the picturesque reservoir loops through sheer rock walls and is the most amazing route into the Albanian Alps. The ferry stops several times to pick up local people en route from remote villages before arriving at Fierze (46km/3h). By car you continue further into the highlands of Valbona National Park, stopping for lunch in the town of Bajram Curri. You reach Valbona Valley by early afternoon, a place that is famous for its stone tower houses. This warm-up walk for tomorrow’s higher elevations follows a crystal clear stream through ancient beech forests, speckled with wild strawberries. Along the way, keen swimmers can take a dip in an ice-cold river or a secluded small lake.
- Walking for the day: 7km, 3h, ↑250m ↓50m
- Transfer by public minibus (06:30 pickup time) or private car to ferry port of Koman (90mins)
- Boat ride through the canyons of the Koman Lake (3h)
- Transfer from Fierze via Bajram Curri (optional lunch stop) to the trailhead in Valbona (75mins)
- Warm-up walk and optional swim (3h)
- Overnight at Valbone guesthouse / private ensuite (Vila Dini or similar)
- Meals included: Breakfast, lunch, dinner
Day 3: Cerem to Doberdol | 16km
A 50mins drive takes you to the remote village of Cerem. Here you start hiking towards the first border crossing. Enjoy forest fruits, admire colourful flora and breathtaking views of Mount Kolata (2,534m). Reaching the rim of Gashi River canyon, follow a high route through the nature reserve’s conifer forest. Here mountain slopes are speckled with small alpine pastures, Balqin being only one of many where you can stop for coffee or raki. Your destination is the glacial-shaped valley of Doberdol (1,750m) where animals graze freely and local people still live in harmony with nature. Staying in simple shepherd huts, swap some of the traditional tourist comforts for traditional warm hospitality. After a home-cooked dinner, relax by the bonfire for a view of the stars and learn more about the region’s shepherding lifestyle.
- Walking for the day: 16km, 7h, ↑1250m ↓650m
- Transfer from Valbone to Cerem (50mins)
- Overnight in Doberdol (Leonard Uka Hut or similar/ shared room)
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
Day 4: Doberdol to Babino Polje | 13km
Today you start with a steep ascent towards Mount Trekufiri (2,366m). Its peak forms the border triangle where Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro meet at one point and, not surprisingly, provides sweeping views of the borderlands. The blueberry-covered path continues into Montenegro, around Mount Bogicevica (2,374m) and the well hidden Lake Hrid. Here, the waters reflect the mountains perfectly and provide habitat for newts, salamanders and fireflies. The trail continues through dense pine forest towards a hamlet of seasonal huts called katun. As you descend, the settlement of Babino Polje comes into view, where you will be staying in simple but very welcoming mountain huts with fantastic Montenegrin home-cooking to fill your boots.
- Walking for the day: 13km, 6h, ↑600m ↓850 m
- Luggage transport
- Overnight in Babino Polje (Eko Katun Hrid or similar/ shared room)
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
Day 5: Grbaja Valley | 12km
The Grbaja Valley is one of the most awe-inspiring in the Balkans. A morning transfer past Lake Plav leads into a narrow valley, wedged between the karst towers of Karanfili (2,461m). Arguably one of the most rugged and dramatic peaks in the Prokletije Mountains, it’s a dream for many climbers. Ascending through a shaded fairytale beech forest, you reach an alpine meadow enveloped by multiple peaks. The connected ridge trail has several panoramic viewpoints, culminating in the highest two peaks of Mount Popadija and Mount Taljanka (2,056m). A steep descent takes you back onto the shaded forest path and, once back down at the valley floor, there are many traditional inns with cold beers to celebrate your achievements. You are then transferred to a family-run guesthouse in Vusanje, where a stroll to the nearby waterfall is a fitting finale to an exciting day.
- Walking for the day: 12km, 6h 30mins, ↑950m ↓950m
- Transfer: 1.25h + 30mins
- Luggage transport
- Overnight in a guesthouse in Vusanje (Vucetaj or similar/ shared room)
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
Day 6: Vusanje to Theth | 11km
Leaving Vusanje, you start walking up the 26km-long glacier-shaped Ropojana Valley. At a karst spring called Oko Skakavice, an ice-cold river is born from melting snow high up in the mountains. Walking past Gjeshtare Lake, a weathered border stone is the only reminder of the once tightly-sealed borders of former communist Albania. Coming through the forest, the mountain terrain opens onto a large alpine meadow speckled with shepherd shacks and an abandoned military post. Trek up to to Peja Pass (1,711m) and then down to Theth, the valley in the heart of the Albanian Alps. Reaching the bottom of the valley, there’s a local watering hole where you can ask the owner for a lift to your guesthouse. Alternatively, you may continue along the largely traffic-free 4×4 track into the centre of the village.
- Walking for the day: Hike 1: 11km, 5h, ↑650 m ↓900 m or hike 2: 9.5km, 6h 30mins, ↑1000m ↓1000m
- Luggage transport
- Overnight in a guesthouse in Theth (Pavlin Polia or similar/ shared room)
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch, dinner
Day 7: Via Grunas waterfall to Nderlysa and Tirana | 8km
A walk through the village and its lush green fields reveals the full extent of Theth. Visit its iconic church and ‘lock-in’ tower or kulla to learn more about the history of blood feuds and Kanun, local traditional laws. This point also marks the trailhead to Nderlysaj. The path ascends to Grunas Waterfall and drops again to a cliff above the 50m-deep Grunas Canyon. A bridle path leads you along the river to Nderlysaj where you can cool down with a glacial swim. A two hours scenic transfer takes you across Thorja Pass (1,630m) into the Valley of Boge and along Shkodra Lake, followed by another transfer to Tirana. The capital city represents a modern and very different side of Albania to the one you have experienced. Bring your day and Balkan Mountains highlights adventure to a close with dinner and a drink out in the chic Blloku district.
- Walking for the day: 8km, 2h 39mins, ↑150m ↓400m
- Transfer: 4.5h
- Luggage transport
- Overnight at a comfortable hotel in Tirana (Hotel Villa 60 or similar)
- Meals included: Breakfast, packed lunch
Day 8: Departure
Time permitting, explore the cultural highlights of Tirana. Sip an espresso in one of many charming cafes, or shop for special treats at the lively New Bazaar. To learn more about Albania’s communist past, Bunkart 2 and House of Leaves are excellent and only a five minutes’ walk away from Tirana’s main Skanderbeg Square. Your Balkans Mountains adventure in Albania ends with a 40mins transfer to the airport.
- Depending on departure time possibility to further explore the capital
- Complimentary transfer to Tirana airport: 40mins
- Meals included: Breakfast
What to expect
Accommodation
Accommodation is in private en-suite hotel rooms on the first and last nights in Tirana. For the rest of the tour, you will stay in shared rooms (two to five people) in simple, cosy guesthouses, hosted by local families who will take good care of you and prepare excellent local dishes for dinner. On day three you will spend the night in a basic shepherd hut. Exact accommodation details will be provided with your booking confirmation.
Click to view hotel photos
- Hotel Tradita
- Vila Dini
- Leonard Uka Hut
- Eko Katun Hrid
- Vucetaj Guesthouse
- Pavlin Polia Guesthouse
- Hotel Villa 60
Hotels are subject to availability. In case a particular hotel is fully booked for your desired dates, we will replace it with a hotel of equal value and quality level. We will provide you with exact accommodation details upon booking confirmation.
Meals
Meals are included as described in the itinerary: all breakfasts, 6 lunches and 5 dinners. While in the mountains all the meals will be prepared and served by your local hosts.
Difficulty and terrain
The tour is suitable for active hikers with a moderate level of fitness. Previous hiking experience is not vital as long as you are confident in your physical condition and sure-footedness. Walking days are usually between five and eight hours, although they can be longer to cross passes or peaks (mostly optional). Daily ascents will likely be around 900m to 1,000m, with the odd day ascending 1,100m or even 1,300m. The tour also includes high mountain terrain, rugged and rough underfoot, and some scrambling sections (read more about difficulty grades). Most – but not all – of the trails are well marked and signposted. We strongly advise you to follow only marked trails and never try to shorten the path through unknown and unmarked terrain. We will provide you with detailed road notes, maps and GPS tracks, and you can call our 24/7 local assistance phone number anytime.
When to go
This trip is available from June until September, weather is best in July – September.
The flexibility of self-guided holidays means that there are no fixed dates, and you can start your trip on any date during the season.
Getting there
Up-to-date travel advice on Albania is available here, and on Montenegro here
Click to view travel options
Recommended airport for this trip is Tirana. A complimentary private return transfer to Tirana airport is included in the trip cost (as indicated in the itinerary).
It takes a long time, but a growing number of our travellers who are choosing not to fly, you can get to Albania by train and ferry, via Italy. The best source of information on how to do this is the train guru, Man in Seat 61. It’s all part of the adventure!
Inclusions
Included
- Accommodation for 7 nights in small hotels (3 nights), family-run guesthouses (3 nights), and 1 hut
- All breakfasts, 6 lunches and 5 dinners
- Transfers as indicated in the itinerary, including complimentary airport transfers from/to Tirana
- Arrival briefing
- Luggage transfers: one piece up to 15kg in soft bags only (limited by luggage transport on horse, take a duffel or rucksack, hard cases are not suitable)
- Detailed route notes, maps (1 x per room) & GPS device with preloaded tracks, SIM-Card
- 24/7 phone assistance by our local office/representative
- Border crossing permits
Excluded
- Airfare and connecting land transfers other than the complimentary airport/city transfers from/to Tirana
- Meals not listed in the itinerary
- Travel insurance (required – get a quote online)
- Personal expenses
- Any other items not explicitly listed as included
Options, extras and supplements
- Due to limited availability in the mountains, single room supplement for group members is possible only on Days 1 and 7
- This tour is NOT available for solo travellers
- One extra night in Tirana before or after the holiday
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