Catherine Mack, our in-house travel writer, shares her thoughts on walking the Pilgrim’s Way, between Rochester and Canterbury.
I laughed out loud when the train pulled up at a station called Sole Street, just a couple of stops outside Rochester, which was my starting point for walking the Pilgrims’ Way in Kent, England. Especially as I had just been quietly contemplating what had attracted me to walking my first pilgrimage and, at the same time, if my feet were up to the challenge. A few minutes later, I stepped out of Rochester train station, to the sound of its cathedral bells, checked into my hotel and went in search, not of my soul, but my Pilgrim’s Passport at the cathedral itself.
My main reason for doing this pilgrimage was not a worshipful one, but more of a hopeful one. As I live in the south of England, I know the South Downs Way very well. Its much loved landscapes feel like old friends at this point in my life, as I’ve walked its various segments over many years. To my shame, however, I’ve neglected the nearby North Downs Way, which also incorporates much of the ancient Pilgrims’ Way. And so, as a keen hiker, I was hoping to find a new friend on my doorstep. And I can safely say that we are now firm soul (and sole) mates.
Where is the Pilgrims’ Way?
There are historically two Pilgrims’ Ways in England: one between Winchester Cathedral in Hampshire and the other from Southwark Cathedral in London, with both finishing at Canterbury Cathedral. Traditionally, the pilgrimage then continued to Rome, following the Via Francigena, where we also offer walking holidays, but only within Italy.
The Archbishop of Canterbury is the spiritual leader of the Church of England and the symbolic leader of the worldwide Anglican Communion. So in itself, Canterbury Cathedral is a pretty significant sacred spot. In addition, however, it became a pilgrimage site following the infamous murder of Archbishop Thomas Becket inside the cathedral in 1170, at the hands of the king’s knights. Thomas Becket was, consequently, venerated as a saint, and a candle still burns daily in the cathedral on the site of his former shrine, which was destroyed by another king years later. You can read more about this fascinating and somewhat terrifying history here.
I admit I did try (and failed) to read Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales and also saw a production of TS Elliot’s Murder in the Cathedral in my youth, both of which cover these periods in history in very different ways. But until now, my knowledge of both pilgrimage and carnage remained pretty much in school homework memories. However, while walking this section of the Pilgrims’ Way from Rochester Cathedral to Canterbury (the last section of the route starting in London), I soon became happily enlightened.
Combining the Pilgrims’ Way and the North Downs Way
The reason we, at The Natural Adventure, have chosen this section of the traditional pilgrimage route as a walking holiday, is because it combines quiet parts of the designated Pilgrims’ Way (much of which is a cycling trail) with the North Downs Way. Starting in Rochester, the cathedral and castle both make for an impressive send off point. I also got to attend a choral evensong in the crypt of the cathedral on the night of my arrival, only to find out that it was a Rogation Day which, unknown to me, is a time of meditation and walking. Traditionally, therefore, it was also a time when communities walked around their local fields and farmlands, to give thanks. And so, with four days to walk around 80km, I reckoned I had plenty of rogation, rambling and ruminating ahead.
Vineyards and villages on the Pilgrims’ Way
After leaving the ancient urban environs of Rochester behind, following the River Medway, the trail soon took me up onto elevated pathways of the North Downs Way, following highways and byways that have long been protected by national trail status. I walked alongside shimmering wheatfields, up chalky paths to the North Downs’ ridges, through ancient woodland and orchards, as well as more recently-planted vineyards. Each trail then brought me back down from perfect pastoral viewpoints to historic villages which, when you take away the 4X4s and a few fast food spots (fish and chips at the Chequers in Lenham are a must, mind you), still feel unchanged by time.
In Thurnham I experienced the most glorious sunset ridge walk, overlooking vast vineyards, and then raised a glass of their fine end product at the Black Horse Inn. In Lenham, my final stretch took me past a giant cross carved into the chalky hillside on the North Downs Way. A spot where the birdsong included Eurasian golden orioles and skylarks when I headed off from the same part of the trail the next morning. In Eastwell I found a concealed church ruin on the banks of a lake and, on my way to Chilham, I lost all track of time amongst the chestnut, beech and pine trees in King’s Woods, which is where I got my first glimpse of Canterbury Cathedral in the distance. There is a wooden sculpture in the woods to mark this spot, a view that people have been taking in for centuries.
A solitary pilgrim on the prettiest of trails
On the walk from Thurnham to Lenham, on my second day of hiking, I was hit with some unseasonal hail and rain, but managed to shelter in a copse not far from Hocking Estate. This turned out to be a worthwhile stopping point, as I got to see another wooden sculpture, this time of a shepherd overlooking his land. He cut a solitary figure on the top of his hill, and was another striking reminder of how many people have walked these paths alone over the centuries. I also started out walking the Pilgrims’ Way alone, but one of my other reasons for undertaking this pilgrimage was because of its proximity to London. This meant that I was joined on a couple of occasions by loved ones who live in the capital, and were able to escape for the day. So many of the stops along the way are accessible by rail, so it works well for people who haven’t got time to do the whole trail with you. And of course, the Pilgrims’ Way also makes an ideal addition to a London city break.
Arriving in Canterbury at the end of the Pilgrim’s Trail
I am not a regular church goer by any stretch of the imagination although, as an Irish woman, religion has played a large part in my culture and upbringing. And so, although getting to Canterbury wasn’t going to be the sacred celebration that it may be for some who live with a strong faith, I was still quite moved by the bells ringing as I walked through the handsome gates.
In addition, one of the joys of this walking holiday is that, when available, you get to spend your last night in Canterbury Cathedral’s lodge, which is located within the grounds. And away from all the tourists. The rooms are top notch, and the view across the lodge’s enclosed courtyard gardens to the cathedral is a treat. It really is a sanctuary in the city, a place to enjoy one final chillout, and also makes for a quick hop over to one of many religious services.
Feeling blessed
When you stay at the lodge, you also get free access to the cathedral and, when you attend a service, pilgrims are invited to stay for an additional blessing. Which I accepted gratefully. “So now you need to walk to Rome” the Residentiary Canon said to me after he’d shared his blessing. “Maybe one day,” I answered politely. “Of course, you can’t walk it in one go anymore, if you’re British,”he added, “You have to come back after 90 days. We can thank Brexit for that.”I pointed out that this is one reason I count my own blessings regularly for being Irish. “Ah lucky you. Brexit was our greatest act of self-harm in this country”, he added. “I won’t quote you on that”, I replied, to which he quickly responded, sweeping his robes with dramatic effect and waving farewell at the same time, “Quote me all you like!” I smiled and, as his slightly rebellious words echoed around Thomas Becket’s shrine, the only words that came to my mind were, Amen to that.
For more information on the Pilgrims’ Way, see the tour link below, and don’t hesitate to chat with one of our adventure specialists. You may also enjoy our blogs on the Via Francigena, the South Downs Way and Alternatives to Camino de Santiago trails.
