The Balearic island of Menorca’s name comes from the Latin for smaller island, compared with its neighbouring Mallorca, which means larger island. One of the most striking things about this small island, however, is that it’s big on coastal beauty, with an array of Caribbeanesque coves, many of which are only accessible on foot, horseback or by bike. And joy of joys, they are linked by a long-distance path, called the Camí de Cavalls which is, in short, a gift to walkers, birders and, most definitely swimmers. I undertook the trail in April, early in the season, and here are some of my hiking highlights. The main one being that if combining swimming with hiking is your passion, get ready for a double whammy on the Camí.
Camí del Cavalls walking trail
The Camí is a 185km trail that encircles the island’s coast, and was built in the 14th century by King James II and his occupying forces, to give access for his knights and horses to protect the island. Which is why it’s also called the Horseman’s Trail. The local community have strived to turn this into something a lot more positive, and worked together to create a public right of way for walkers. And, in some sections horses and bikes too.
On our walking holiday on the Camí dels Cavalls, we have created an itinerary that features stupendous saunters along the south, north and east of the island. Including some of these Menorcan marvels below. And as the highest point of the island is only 358m, there are no mountains to take on. There are a few steep ridges or plateaus to access, so it’s not without its challenges, but they all have beaches beckoning at the bottom.
S’Albufera des Grau Natural Park
A heavenly hangout not just for adventurers on our walking and cycling holidays, but also migratory birds, turtles and tortoises, meaning that S’Albufera des Grau Natural Park and the whole island were declared a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1993. Located in the north-east, near the town of Es Grau, I walked through its wetlands, woodlands and sand dunes on the first day of hiking on the Camí de Cavalls, starting out at Cap de Favaritx lighthouse. This luscious landscape is a great starter on Menorca’s menu of coastal hiking.
Cap de Favaritx
As mentioned, this was my starting point for walking on the Camí del Cavalls, the place where my driver, Emilio, dropped me on the end of the peninsula, and the beginning of my adventure. It’s an apt spot to start, not only because it’s a remote and wild rocky promontory, with flat black slate cliffs , but also because there’s a handsome lighthouse landmark. It’s a haven for birding here too, with seabirds busy nesting at this time of year, and ospreys, red kites and booted eagles preying. Emilio is a keen birder, and gave me a bird leaflet for the trip, as he pointed out some beauties with his binoculars.
A collection of calas along the Camí del Cavalls
Although there are some idyllic inland stretches on the Camí del Cavalls, through pine and oak woodland, or along rocky ravines, you rarely walk for more than two hours without seeing the Mediterranean glistening in the distance. Perfectly timed to cool off those hot and swelling feet. Menorca is famous for having over a hundred beaches or coves (calas) along its 216km coastline and so I can’t list them all. But here are some that pushed expletives out of my mouth, as it fell rapidly to the ground in awe. And, in April, many were deserted or had just a handful of people. And yes, swimming definitely happened.
Cala Rambles
As this was my first beach treat on day one of this walking holiday, after traversing the inland section of Albufera des Grau Natural Park, Cala Rambles (also known as Cala de Sa Torreta) holds a place in my heart. In addition, I had this sparkling, silent and sandy spot all to myself, and it was my first experience of just how turquoise the water can be here.
It was also my first moment of curiosity about Posidonia, otherwise known as Neptune grass or Mediterranean tapeweed, which creates a spongy layer on top of the sand. I wasn’t sure if it had been swept onto the beach during the recent Tramuntana winds, or if it was a permanent feature. Turns out it’s a feature of Menorca’s ecosystem all year round, and it plays an important role in keeping the Med clean. However, it’s at its most prolific in winter and spring and it makes the beaches even more special in my view.
Cala Mesquida
Located on the north-east coast, not far from the island’s capital of Mahón, it brought my day to a very satisfying and salty close on the first day of hiking on the Camí del Cavalls. It’s the main beach of Sa Mesquida village, overlooked by two headlands – Sa Creueta and Es Pas Gros. Before you reach the beach, there’s a rocky promontory with a defence tower from the 18th century overlooking a smaller sandy beach known as Arenal de sa Mesquida, which is a bit quieter than the main one in the town. Although it’s near the town, parking is strictly limited, and a good walk from the beaches, and in April, it was almost empty.
Platja Son Bou
This is one big bou-ty, and one of the sandiest stretches on the Camí del Cavalls, as it’s the longest in Menorca at 2.4km. You can walk through the nearby town of Son Bou instead, but I was definitely one to remove my boots and walk on the water’s edge for the whole length. It’s located on day three of the walking holiday, on the stretch between Cala en Porter and Santo Tomás, both of which have coastal wonders, but this one has serious littoral longueur. And it makes for a perfect lunch break too, after a hot and hefty inland hike to get there. On my third day of walking, Son Bou was my boo, for sure. Although I turned out to have a fickle love affair with beaches in Menorca, because they seem to just get better and better with each day.
Cala Mitjana and Cala Galdana
These are neighbours, but for a remote and ravishing combo, Mitjana took first place of the two for me. It’s also the first one you approach while walking on day four of the Cami de Cavalls holiday. Albeit at the end of the day, so you want to give yourself plenty of time to bask in this one’s swoon-worthy sapphires. I spent that night in Cala Galdana and so it’s tempting to head to the end of the trail, but I judged this one right. I swam, snacked and snoozed at the tranquil Cala Mitjana and then headed to my hotel after that, only to come back to the still waters of Cala Galdana at sunset, when everyone had gone home. In addition, the Camí de Cavalls trail between the two is postcard paradise. I had to pinch myself at several points to make sure it’s real.
Cala Macarella
Located on the southern coast near Ciutadella, this is one of those beaches where, when you’re meditating and asked to picture yourself on white sands, with water lapping gently on the shore, this would be the place. In reality, I took myself there on day five of the walking holiday, a section of the Camí that clings to calas galore, in between dunes and wild olive groves. Cala Macarella and its smaller neighbour, Cala Macarelleta, are surrounded by limestone cliffs and can get busy in peak season, But in April, de nada. And de nudey, as both beaches are popular with naturist adventurers. It’s also not far from your starting point in Cala Galdana, so pack a picnic breakfast and bring it here instead of the hotel.
Cala del Pilar
This pretty package comes at the end of a 14km hike up and down coastal ridges, on day six of the walking in Menorca holiday. It’s a 40mins walk from the car park where I was met by Emilio, my ever-friendly driver throughout the trip for necessary transfers, and for this reason some people skip it. They’re tired, dusty and are dreaming of a hotel shower. Trust me, walk the extra mile for this marvel. It finishes with a magnificent construction of wooden steps down to the beach, with iron-rich rocks and promontories that create red sand – a mesmerising combination against crystalline waters. It’s all uphill back to your lift, but Emilio played cool jazz in the car as I was driven like royalty to Ciutadella, feeling like I was living the dream.
Ciutadella
I spent one night in Ciutadella, located on the island’s westernmost point and, still very quiet in April, this ancient port town immediately felt very different to everywhere else. It has no shortage of elegant architecture, as it was the former capital before British rule. It has also retained some of its ancient heritage, such as the Taula and Talaiot megaliths, as well as the medieval streets in Plaza de Es Born, with the Born obelisk taking centre stage at 22m high. This marks the resistance of local people to the Turks who went on to destroy the city in 1558. No better place to start exploring the city than at the daily market in Plaza del Mercat, or the Friday and Saturday markets in Plaza de Es Born, or by simply enjoying a traditional Menorca gin and lemon and some seafood tapas in the evening. I loved Cafeteria Triton, on the waterfront, for an untouristy feel.
Mahón
This Menorca walking holiday starts and ends in the island’s capital of Mahón (known locally as Maó), a natural harbour and ancient walled port, where migratory species range from yachties to foodies, art collectors to beach bar hipsters. Although it was still very sleepy in April. The city’s architecture reveals the many international influences over the years, ranging from the elegant Georgian houses and public buildings from 18th-century British rule to the Arch de San Roque, the only remains of the city’s ancient city walls.
Best time to go to Menorca
As mentioned, I travelled in early April, which coincided with Easter, and so I expected it to be busy. But this must be one of Menorca’s best kept secrets, because you pretty much have it all to yourself until mid-May, with the majority of businesses only opening 01 May. This means some beach bars, restaurants and shops are closed. However your accommodations often provide picnics, or Emilio, who did my transfers, sought out a supermarket if necessary before I hit the trail. Sea temperatures were around 16C in April and most people didn’t swim, but as an all year round sea swimmer based in the UK, this was divine for me, especially as hiking temperatures were around 27C.
For most people, the best time for walking in Menorca is between April and June, and then throughout September and October, avoiding peak season and peak temperatures. In March and November, temperatures average around 14C with chances of rain. Moving on to April, average maximum temperatures are 18C, so my trip was exceptionally warm for this time of year. Temperatures average 26C in September and dip to 22C in October, with sea temperatures almost matching those. Spring is also perfect for wildflowers, with a colourful array of bee orchids, buttercups, large garland daisies and poppies popping up along the trail.
My top 10 tips for hiking in Menorca
- If you’re nervous about trying a solo walking holiday, the Camí de Cavalls is a great starter. I travelled solo and it was super-easy to follow the trails and app. I also felt very supported by our partner on the ground, who never missed a transfer of me or my bags.
- Bring more than one swimsuit every day. Or just skinny dip if it’s your thing. It’s pretty much the norm at the quiet coves. Although keep an eye out for jellyfish, and always rinse with sea water if you get a sting, remove tentacles with tweezers and carry antihistamines just in case.
- Wear a sunhat that has neck protection. It’s very exposed, and I spent long periods with my back to the sun. And it goes without saying to have lots of sunscreen, ideally one that is marine-friendly.
- You are never offered tap water to drink in hotels or restaurants, so be prepared to fork out for bottled water. As the island is in the EU and has to meet water quality regulations, I decided to drink the tap water in the hotels. And I was fine, but it’s your call. You can always ask if they have a filtered water system in your hotel, as some do. If not, there are quite a few options for mineral water in glass bottles. I also carried a Water to Go filtered water bottle with me for quick top ups and I take electrolytes too.
- The only WCs on the Camí del Cavalls are wild ones, so be prepared. Bring toilet paper, scented poo bags as you may need to carry them for a while, and some moisture-wicking underwear. This is hot hiking, with a lot of wild wees along the way if you’re hydrating properly. If your body is feeling helpful, then definitely get the heavy WC work out of the way before you leave the hotel. Otherwise, be prepared, and check out the innovative WAG bags as a method recommended by Leave No Trace.
- Definitely bring walking poles, although I only brought one, as I find it a hassle to have two personally, although I’m upgrading to two for speed soon. Some of these hikes are on seriously stony terrain, so you need the poles for stability. I also wore sturdy boots and glad that I did.
- Bring a collapsible lunch box. The breakfasts are generous and you can easily make a sandwich for lunch out of the food you can’t eat. I would also recommend bringing a flask, as some of the more elevated spots beg for a tea or coffee break. And on some days, there are beautiful beaches within a stone’s throw of your hotel, so you can breakfast there instead.
- Although it didn’t rain once when I was there, early April is still the season for the Tramuntana winds, which bring lower temperatures and sometimes rain. So be prepared and look ahead at the forecast.
- Get the (free) Merlin birding app, as Menorca is famous for its birdlife. I saw booted eagles and peregrines flying overhead as I swam. And I heard a bevy of birdsong on my inland walks along the Camí de Cavalls too. All of which I was able to identify with the app.
- Hosts will try their best to support dietary requests, but the buffet breakfasts have a strong focus on meat, cheese and other dairy products. So do advise us in advance so that we can pass on your requirements to hotels. Especially in quiet seasons, when there are fewer restaurant options too.
For more information, please don’t hesitate to contact our team of adventure specialists or click on the holiday link below. If you found this blog useful, you may also enjoy my blog about walking in Mallorca.
