A Moroccan hammam is a public bath house, and when we say public, we mean public. There’s nothing private about them, except that they are segregated spaces, where men go into one area and women into another. With smaller hammams attached to riads or in villages, there may be just one space with allocated times for men or women to use them. What they all have in common is that hammams are hot, heavenly and hairy. They offer a range of services which generally include soaping, scrubbing, shampooing and massage so, in short, getting into all the nooks and crannies. If you want a real natural adventure, or some might say naturist adventure, here are our top tips for understanding it and embracing time in a Moroccan hammam.
What to wear in a Moroccan hammam
When you arrive, you’re generally given a basket, towel, soap and disposable underwear. For women, the underwear is paper thin, either thong style or short style and many local people just wear their own pants. You may feel more comfortable in underwear you’re familiar with. For women, there’s nothing to cover your top, and although many non-Moroccans wear a bikini or swimsuit, and that’s totally fine, Moroccan women are all topless and some don’t wear pants either. Men do wear their underwear throughout, however. For women in particular, however, the hammam is a place to hang out and let it all hang out.
The Moroccan hammam vibe
Unless you go to a very touristy hammam, you have the privilege of entering the heart of a Moroccan community, where people of all ages come weekly to bathe, scrub, chat and chill. Women bring their daughters and men their sons. They can be very busy spaces, so quite different to the experience of a Scandinavian sauna, for example. They are steamy and busy, but they are run by extremely efficient and experienced men and women who appreciate that visitors are new to the vibe.
Segregation nation
Just like many places in Morocco, men and women don’t mix in the hammam, but sometimes they have spaces where you can hang out afterwards, sip mint tea and reflect on what just happened. It can take a bit of processing time if you’re not used to it. In some hammams, you can rent a room to yourself, a friend, family member or partner. But in these cases, you won’t have the services of someone to do the scrubbing. And, for many, that’s the most satisfying bit. In women’s hammams there are only ever women working but, in men’s hammams, they may sometimes have women working too, but this is rare and usually only in tourist hammams. It’s also worth noting that boys are also allowed into women’s hammams accompanied by the female adults, so sometimes you see mothers there with sons and daughters.
Hold out your hand in a hammam
Even if they don’t speak your language, the men or women working in the hammam often just hold out their hand, invite you to hold it and then guide you to all the places you want to go: the changing area, the soaping down area, the scrubbing and massaging areas. So, if you’re feeling out of your comfort zone, just give them your hand and they will lead you. Sometimes with a smile, other times not. One thing about Moroccans, however, if you smile at them they nearly always smile back, and put you at your ease immediately.
A very different bedside manner
It’s a bit of a cultural shift for some, but Moroccans who work in the hammam can be a lot more direct than many are accustomed to. It’s not uncommon for them to ask women if they’re pregnant, even if they aren’t. They aren’t body shaming, as that’s not part of their culture, they are just doing their job because they can’t give you certain treatments if you’re pregnant. While they pamper you, they may ask personal questions like ‘are you married’, ‘do you have children yet’ etc. You don’t have to answer of course, but chat that revolves around marriage and family is very much part of common parlance in Morocco.
The wash cycle
If you go for the full Moroccan hammam package, this is generally what you can expect: the first stage takes place in the wash room, where there are mats or upturned buckets to sit on, and other buckets full of water to have poured all over you. Then you smear Moroccan black soap (beldi) all over your body, which is a thick greeny-black paste made from olives and sometimes argan oil. You may be asked to do that bit by yourself, or someone may do it for you. One tip is to not shave before the hammam, as the soap may sting if you do.
You will be left alone to let the black soap soak in for about five to ten minutes, while the minerals and vitamin-E do their work, and then you are taken to a marble table where you lie down and are scrubbed down. On both sides. Using an exfoliating glove, or kessa, the dead skin is skilfully removed and, depending on your threshold, this can be ticklish or soreish. They get the results though, and the amount of dead skin they remove can almost cause embarrassment to the uninitiated. You definitely feel smoother afterwards though.
The rinse and rub cycle
After the dead skin has been wiped off, you are led to another section where you lie down again and soap is rubbed into your body, before being massaged. The strength of the massage seems to vary but it can be pretty tough going, particularly on the men, so be prepared to let them know what level of massage you are comfortable with. If you’re concerned, just skip this bit. Finally, you may also have a shampoo using the same black soap, which feels amazing, followed by one last rinse with either a shower, or several buckets of hot water poured over your head. And that’s it. There’s no tumble drier you’ll be glad to hear, although you may feel like you’ve been through one when it’s over.
Photography is a no no in a Moroccan hammam
It may seem obvious to most that photography is not allowed. However sadly, in this era of Insta-worthy moments and our constant hankering for shareable shots, some people will still sneak a shot. Trust us, having a Moroccan hammam is a memorable experience so you won’t need a photo to remember it. And in terms of sharing, what happens in the hammam should always stay in the hammam.
Try and find the real deal
In Marrakech and other resorts, there are some more touristy facilities which are a bit more hammam-light. However, we recommend just diving in and going for the real thing, where you get to see local people doing what comes naturally to them. We recommend Hammam Nilo in Marrakech, where there’s also a courtyard to mellow out with mint tea afterwards. Another one where you can get your own room is Hammam Essalama and, for something a bit more luxurious, check out Les Bains d’Azahara. You may need to book in advance on the phone (speaking French is helpful if you don’t speak Arabic) or just go in person to book. In Essaouira, where we offer extensions on all of our Morocco holidays, we recommend Hammam Ghita and Hammam Kenza.
Hammam hygiene
When you arrive, you’re given a sealed package of disposable underwear, towel and flip-flops. The beds are washed and wiped down after the scrubs and massages, but it’s not a doctor’s surgery style of anti-bacterial cleansing. It’s all a bit ‘get down and dirty’ in a hammam, but the outcome is definitely one where you feel thoroughly cleansed. You can always check reviews of most Moroccan hammams online to see if people had particular concerns, but remember that the hammam is a different world to the one many of us are familiar with. It’s hot and sweaty, people shave and scrub each other. And if those words make you anxious, it really may not be for you.
Hammam hydration
It gets hot, but not quite as hot as some saunas. You’re generally only in there for about 45mins to an hour, but you do sweat a lot, so make sure you drink plenty of water before you go and after. And you can also bring your own bottle of water with you to the hammam of course. Try to avoid tea and coffee on the day you go to the hammam, and also it’s best not to drink alcohol before and after. We recommend just planning a very relaxing evening afterwards anyway, as you may feel tired.
The hammam community
It’s always worth remembering that the hammam is a place for people to gather, cleanse and seek community in doing so. If you’re feeling shy, you will soon see that no one is looking at you. This is a place where everyone is on the same level. And also, if you are feeling uncomfortable, you can always leave. It’s not a prison. It’s the opposite – a place to feel liberated and free about your body.
If you’ve enjoyed your time in the hammam, you may appreciate the following blogs about more places of peace: A guide to Japanese baths and onsen etiquette; Get hot and be cool about Finnish sauna etiquette; Wild swimming spots in Scotland and Top tips for achieving mindfulness on holiday. For any more information on hiking or cycling in Morocco, check out all our tours here and don’t hesitate to contact our adventure specialists with any other questions. Now, pass the soap please.
