Our UK and Ireland Destination Manager, Gregor Stewart recently walked Hadrian’s Wall Path and, although we wouldn’t say that he’s obsessed with the Roman Empire, he’s definitely into his hiking. Here are his top tips for walking Hadrian’s Wall, from taking the train to getting in training, reading up and gearing up.
1. Manage your expectations of Hadrian’s Wall
It’s important to bear in mind that this is a 2000 year-old structure, so there’s not a lot of Hadrian’s Wall visible. When you’re aware of that, it means that the parts you do see are very significant. So, you’re not walking beside a wall the whole way. In fact, there is a large 30km section where you’re walking alongside a road. This is pretty much the same road as the original Roman military road, and in parts there are still Roman ditches that were dug for defense. And it’s fascinating to see just how far these ditches stretch.
2. Know that our walking holidays go east to west
Which direction to walk Hadrian’s Wall is a much-debated subject. There are benefits to both, but we have chosen east to west on all of our walking holidays, because we think it’s easier to start in the big city (of Newcastle) and get the urban sprawl over with at the beginning. In contrast, the final day’s walk to Bowness-on-Solway on Solway Firth estuary, which is part of Solway Coast National Landscape, is stunning. And the Kings Arms pub is a great spot there to raise a glass to walking the wall. Historians also enjoy walking Hadrian’s Wall in this direction because it follows the chronological history of how the Romans built it. Please note that we are happy to organise a west to east itinerary for our adventurers, upon request.
3. Be prepared for some windy walks
The main advantage of walking in the other direction, however, is that you usually have the wind in your back. And so, you do need to prepare yourself for some windy walking on our Hadrian’s Wall walking holidays. And I did have pretty tough weather when I walked it in March, with strong winds all week. So it’s important to prepare before you go. But to be honest, it’s manageable with these distances because there is no high-altitude hiking. And also, we transport your bags for you of course, so you’re not hiking with a giant backpack (or armour!).
4. Read up on Hadrian’s Wall before you go
Similar to these details about the ditches, there’s a lot to learn about the building of the wall and its surrounding area. So, for example, during the much later 18th-century Jacobite rebellion, the British army decided that the wall and muddy ditches were considered to be impassable. History shows that they got that wrong. Hadrian’s Wall didn’t block the Jacobites, but the rebellion did contribute to the wall’s destruction shortly after. To prevent future invasions, the British forces built a new military road along the wall, using stones plundered directly from Hadrian’s Wall. For this and many more facts, there’s a great reading list about Hadrian’s Wall at Vindolanda Charitable Trust.
5. Read the signs
There is also plenty of information along the way of course. It’s striking on the walking holiday that the whole area is just so involved and engulfed in that history. So no matter where you are, even when you’re off the route, you’ll find these interesting tidbits.
6. Take the train to the start of Hadrian’s Wall
I’m based in Scotland and took the train to Newcastle, which included a high-speed train down the Northumbrian coast, which is a stunning train journey. And a great start to the adventure. It’s less easy on the way back, but there is a bus from the end point to Carlisle (30mins), where there is a large train station. Please note that there are no buses to Carlisle on Sundays, so if your trip ends on a Sunday you need to take a taxi to Carlisle.
One other tip for the first day is to take Newcastle’s Tyne and Wear Metro to Tynemouth and visit Segedunum Roman Fort and Museum, as it’s really worth it. It marks the eastern end of Hadrian’s Wall. Built around AD125, Segedunum was actually an add-on to the main construction, built three or four years later. Making it the final frontier really. But the beginning of your journey.
7. The Romans didn’t do pub lunches
Unlike some of our other English and Scottish adventure holidays, you don’t come across many ancient pubs and inns while walking Hadrian’s Wall Path. There was one fantastic one at East Wallhouse, the Robin Hood Inn, as well as the aforementioned Kings Arms in Bowness-on-Solway. However, all our accommodations are picnic-savvy, and prepare packed lunches for walkers. You usually get a decent sandwich, drink, crisps and some fruit, or even a bar of chocolate if you’re lucky. All for around £10. However, if you have a favourite snack for walking holidays, bring some with you to add to your packed lunch. This also means that there aren’t many toilet breaks along the way, so be prepared.
8. Wear waterproof boots
There had been a lot of heavy rain just before I walked the trail, and so I was actually surprised that it wasn’t more muddy. Generally it was fine, and it was the sections through farmland that were the worst really. The sections alongside the Roman ditches were pretty dry and solid, so clearly those ditches are still doing a good drainage job! But I do recommend sturdy, ankle-height waterproof boots, and gaiters too.
9. Unlike the Romans, everyone’s friendly
All the accommodations are very walker-friendly. It’s their bread and butter in this region really and, as there is a limited amount of places to stay, they are all full of walkers. And there are plenty of other friendly walkers too. I met a lovely bunch of people who were walking at the same pace as me, and whom I bumped into every day, which is always fun on these trips. In particular, one family from Canada, and also two English guys. It was great to meet at the pub in Bowness-on-Solway on the last day.
10. Use walking poles
I couldn’t recommend walking poles more highly for walking Hadrian’s Wall Path as well as all our long-distance walking holidays. And 100% use two poles rather than one. They help you manage your energy and ensure you don’t burn out your legs, especially on some of the longer days on the Hadrian’s Wall Path.
We hope that you enjoyed Gregor’s great advice. For more information, here are all our Hadrian’s Wall Path walking holidays. Our adventure specialists are always here to answer your questions or concerns. For more thoughts on hiking in the UK by Gregor, our Destination Manager for UK and Ireland, see Meet the people who know the place, How to get to the Isle of Skye and other top tips, and Top tips for travelling in Scotland, and Everything you need to know about the South West Coast Path.
