Our photographer, Les Latchman, travelled to Morocco’s High Atlas Mountains to trek and talk with the Amazigh people, also known as Berbers. He not only took great photos, but also saw way beyond the lens into the hearts and minds of these great people.
Having been lucky enough to visit Morocco three times before, I had a pretty clear idea of what I’d be photographing on my latest assignment to hike in the Atlas Mountains for The Natural Adventure. I envisioned bustling medinas, lush green valleys, snowy peaks and tucking into plenty of tagine. However, that picture was shattered in Imlil on day two, when a tall man draped in several goatskins walked into our homestay wielding a large stick. His eyes scanned the room in haste until they fell upon Mohamed, our local guide. Pausing the pouring of tea, Mohamed warmly embraced the mysterious man and explained that his appearance was for the multi-day Amazigh (or Berber) festival, known locally as Boujloud.
Amazigh or Berber?
The Amazigh people are native to Morocco and can be found throughout the country, but in particular in this region of the High Atlas Mountains. While the word Berber is more well known amongst English speakers, the people themselves prefer the indigenous name of Amazigh, which means ‘free people’. Their culture is one that predates the arrival of the Arabs and the Boujloud Festival is one of many traditions they’ve sought and succeeded in keeping alive.
The Boujloud Festival is centred around the theme of good versus evil and is brought to life through the protagonist, Father of Skins. Although he can be a shocking visual at first, the dressing up is a joyous occasion and the primary objective is to play tag with children in the mountains using makeshift sticks.
This role is highly sought after and we learnt first hand just how everyone else gets involved as we followed Father of Skins outside to a celebration in full flow. People of all ages were dancing in the street, women and children singing from rooftops and men clapping in a huge circle. It was an incredible spectacle and to my surprise, I was warmly invited to the middle where my adrenaline skyrocketed as I dodged the swinging sticks to get some of my favourite photographs of the whole trip.
Cultural immersion in the Atlas Mountains
This experience was one of my many highlights in Morocco and proved to be a wonderful introduction to Amazigh culture. Prior to this visit, my experience in Morocco had mainly been in cities such as Marrakech with large groups of up to 30 people. These locations of course have their own charm with their fast-paced nature, organised chaos and abundance of convenience.
However this time around, we were deep in the High Atlas Mountains with a group of six people which enabled us to fully immerse ourselves in the local culture and connect with people along the way. This cultural immersion meant that I had time to see that Amazigh people live life at a slower pace, and although they are outwardly passionate in festival season, they generally have a shy, gentle and inquisitive way about them which really resonated with me. This is reflective of my own personality in a way and I found it easier than other places to naturally strike up conversations.
To my surprise quite a few local people spoke English, so it meant these conversations went deeper than reciting famous Moroccan footballers or butchering a request for another mint tea. One of my most enjoyable conversations was with our guesthouse manager in Imlil, Said. He shared stories from his previous life as a qualified mountain guide and taught us about the deep spiritual connection between the land, people, plants and animals. This belief has stood the test of time and has directly shaped the Atlas Mountains region which we enjoy today. From the equality and respect the local people give you, to the innovative agriculture, trade routes and of course delicious cuisine.
Amazigh cooking
Indeed, I experienced some of the best food I’ve ever eaten thanks to the diverse range of ingredients and traditional cooking methods that have been passed down through generations. My most memorable being the lamb couscous which we collectively dug into after a long day hiking to the basecamp of Mount Toubkal. This dish was not just invented, but perfected by the Amazigh, which your tastebuds can immediately tell through the way the meat gently falls off the bone, the crunchiness present in every vegetable and of course, the bed of couscous which underlies every spoonful culminating in culinary dreamland.
The best part of all of these culinary experiences, and in fact throughout the adventure, is the unbelievable hospitality that our hosts bestowed upon us wherever we found ourselves. Whether that’s being offered a fresh cup of mint tea to accompany our stunning mountain vista or a full-blown feast after a rewarding day of hiking.
Amazigh hospitality surpasses all expectations
On reflection, I would go as far to say it’s just as much the hospitality, as it is the food that really powers you through this extraordinary region. For us, this all started and ended with our aforementioned mountain leader for the trip. Mohamed grew up in the Atlas Mountains and having him by our side throughout the treks added so much to the experience. Wherever we went, he seemed to be everyone’s best friend in the villages that we walked through or on a trail in the middle of nowhere. To delight, that came with a few unexpected benefits. From never waiting for dinner when arriving at our accommodation, securing the sturdiest mule for our bags or, my personal favourite, knowing the best spots to take epic photos throughout our journey.
The Amazigh community spirit
Whenever I travel, I always try to create genuine connections with people. In Morocco, I found the Amazigh way of life to be so welcoming, and the people treated me, and all of our group members, like favourite family members. This respect and warmth means you can’t help but feel safe, protected and part of a strong sense of community spirit. This spirit is felt in every village we passed through as well as in every person we met on the trails. Whether that’s something small like three guys helping a friend carry his new refrigerator up a mountain, or something monumental like witnessing the collective efforts to rebuild after the devastating earthquake in September 2023.
Learning from the survival culture of the Amazigh
During this earthquake, over 3,000 Moroccans lost their lives and hundreds of villages were flattened within seconds in the High Atlas Mountains area. However if it wasn’t for some of the buildings still in disrepair you’d have no idea. In fact, I would say that the tragedy has somehow made the community and people stronger than ever. They’re still celebrating. They’re still generous. They’re still smiling, especially under the goat masks.
The positivity and resourcefulness of the Amazigh people to bounce back so quickly has really made its mark on me and changed my perspective while travelling. I’ve often gone into my adventures with a particular travel gaze that’s been influenced by pre-travel research, stories from or, in this case, having visited the country several times before. Whilst what I expected was there, I discovered so much beyond this thanks to Amazigh people and culture. Here’s to slowing down, being more curious and seeking out that community spirit on my future travels.
For more information on Moroccan tours, don’t hesitate to contact our adventure specialists. They run throughout the year, and although you might not time your visit for the Boujloud Festival, which takes place after Eid al-Adha, there will be no shortage of other cultural adventures along your trails. You can also get to meet Mohamed, our man on the ground in Morocco, in this blog chat with him, read more about the Best time to go to Morocco and get more details about trekking up Mount Toubkal.
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Highest Peaks of Atlas Mountains
Hiking the High Atlas and Mount Toubkal
Hiking in the High Atlas Mountains and Marrakech
Hiking in the High Atlas Mountains Short Break
Mount Toubkal and Sahara Desert Trek
Mount Toubkal Trek
Mount Toubkal Express
Mount Toubkal Classic Climb with Marrakech
