Our Destination Manager, Katya Panchenkova is a regular hiker and mountain aficionado, who loves nothing more than being immersed in nature. Literally sometimes, as she never hikes without a swimsuit in her backpack. She chats with us about her recent adventure, joining other hikers on our Peaks of the Balkans guided walking holiday. A keen solo traveller, she’s a newcomer to small group holidays. Read on to see if she adapted, adored or found advantages to doing the Balkans with buddies.
How can you sum up the Peaks of the Balkans Trail?
The Peaks of the Balkans is more than just a hiking trail. It’s a special opportunity to experience the diverse, well-preserved cultures of the mountainous regions of Albania, Kosovo and Montenegro. It appealed to me the moment I discovered it several years ago and added it to my hiking wish list. Furthermore, the Balkans still keep their cultural traditions alive, making a hike through any country in the region a true adventure.
Did you have expectations of the Peaks of the Balkans guided tour beforehand?
I had expectations of the trip, because I know the routes and elevation gains etc but, apart from that, I just put myself in the hands of my guides. Which was lovely, because I’d had a very busy year, and so it was lovely to just not have to think about anything! Also, in general, I don’t like to have expectations really. I want to go with an open heart and see what the road will bring.
As you do a lot of solo adventures, were you worried about having to go at a group pace?
I didn’t worry honestly, and am generally happy to go with the flow. It was actually very relaxing because I didn’t have to check the trail all the time, which I usually do when I hike alone. I usually have the trail on an app and I check it all the time. But I just followed our guide, which was fantastic. Plus I didn’t have to feel worried about my phone battery running out. Even though I am usually a solo traveller, being part of a group on this journey was an absolute pleasure. I deeply enjoyed our relaxed evenings at the local guesthouses after long hikes, sharing stories and experiences with fellow travellers.
How many people were in the group?
There were 10 of us and it was a very international group, with people from the USA, the Netherlands, the UK, Belgium, Germany and Lithuania. Most of us were solo travellers actually, and there was also one couple. Everyone was experienced, with lots of multi-day hikes under their belts. Some even brought high-altitude experience from climbing Mount Kilimanjaro and Cotopaxi. Age-wise, we had people from their 20s to their 60s, but we averaged around 35 to 40 years old, which created a fantastic and balanced dynamic.
Tell me more about the guides who accompanied you.
Because our group exceeded eight hikers, we were accompanied by two guides, both men. They were really great, quite different personality-wise, but they complemented each other perfectly, and worked flawlessly as a team. One of them, Ali, is from Tirana in Albania and the other, Demi, is from Pristina in Kosovo. Demi surprised us by being a wonderful singer, and he even sang some Bulgarian traditional songs, which delighted me as I’m from there of course! He also makes his own cheese, and was telling us that he has 60kg of cheese at home at the moment. Sadly he didn’t bring any of it with him!
One guide generally walked in the front, and the other one at the tail of the group. This meant that if there were people who preferred walking more slowly and enjoying the scenery, they could take their time, and we often just split groups. One went faster, and the other at a more relaxed pace, which was really good because I’m not one of those people that rushes all the time. And I love to take photos, look around and enjoy the natural wonders of the trail. And so I didn’t feel rushed at all.
I also loved that, when we met other independent hikers, who weren’t with our group, and they asked us questions about the trail, our guides were always very helpful, gave them lots of information, and were all round great guys.
Were there any particularly good coffee stops?
Yes, I think it was on day three, on the trek from Çerem to Dobërdol, we stopped at a wonderful mountain cafe, where you can buy coffee, homemade yogurt with honey and so on. But our guides surprised us by ordering a sponge cake for us all. That was so sweet of them. Coffee stops were always made so interesting by their stories too, with the guides always filling us in on Accursed Mountain traditions and, in particular the Kanun, which is the ancient code of Albanian code of conduct.
What’s the Kanun then, or do those stories have to stay in the mountains?
The Accursed Mountains are home to the Albanian Malësori people or highlanders, who still follow this traditional code of conduct called the Kanun of Lekë Dukagjini, which has honour and hospitality at its core. On the last day of hiking, we passed the Lock-in Tower of Theth (Kulla e Ngujimit), which is also known as a blood feud tower. Traditionally, when there was a dispute, the elders of the region brought both families of the feud together at the tower. They also bring a baby from the family who perpetrated the crime, and put it in a cradle. Then they turned the cradle upside down for a minute or so, until they had resolved the dispute, forcing them to a place of resolution. The mountains seem to be filled with stories like this.
Is the Peaks of the Balkans Trail well marked?
Yes it is well marked, but there are many places where you can go wrong, if you’re not careful. So it’s really a huge advantage to have guides. Also, when we reached the main viewpoints, such as at the top of Mount Trekufiri (2,366m),where three borders meet, they were able to point out all the different places (and countries!) that we could see. Of course you can always look at maps to do this, but it really helped me understand and get perspective with their expert knowledge..
What time of year did you go and was it busy?
I went during the first week of September and, although the Peaks of the Balkans is getting a lot more well known, it wasn’t that busy at all. It was approaching the end of the season but because the weather is stable at this time of year, and not too hot, there were still people on the trail. We met fellow hikers every day, but there were always long sections that were quiet. And there were never queues at landmarks, or anything like that.
Our Peaks of the Balkans Trail tours run between June and September, because these are the best conditions for high mountain trekking. Valbona Pass, for example, is closed outside these months, due to snowfall and, on rare occasions, it is also closed in summer if snow falls.
And how was the weather?
Although the average summer high temperature in these mountains is around 26C, we certainly experienced warm days like this. But temperatures also dipped to half that sometimes at night. When we arrived in Tirana at the beginning of the tour, however, it was 37C! So we were very relieved to head straight to the cooler temperatures of the mountains.
After that, every day brought brilliant sunshine, with just a few scattered clouds to make our photos more interesting. The only rain we encountered was a brief sprinkle as we left Hrid Lake, before the sun broke through again. While a heavier downpour arrived later that evening during dinner, we were already safe inside our accommodation, so it never affected the hikes.
Did you do much preparation, or just your usual regular hiking?
I didn’t do any specific training. I went on a week-long hike in the Pirin Mountains in Bulgaria at the beginning of August. But I do hike a lot. For example, I took on the Mount Olympus trek earlier last year, which you can read about here. So, I felt well prepared for this one.
Did you get any opportunities to swim on the Peaks of the Balkans Trail?
Yes, I’m a keen wild swimmer and so I had packed my swimsuit. I was delighted, therefore, that we had three swims during the walking holiday, and that’s always fun to experience with other group members of course. We swam on the first hiking day in the Valbona River, which was really freezing so that one was just a quick dip.
The next one was on our walk from Dobërdol to Babino Polje on day four, which is also the day that you hike to Mount Trekufiri. Just after we crossed over the border to Montenegro, we had a lunch break by Hrid Lake, which was much warmer, and I was able to swim from one shore to another. And finally, on our last day of hiking, we went to some natural pools which were just perfect, as it was very hot that day.
And how was the food?
The food throughout the journey was an absolute feast! Every meal featured fresh, locally produced ingredients, including homemade cheeses, farm eggs and fresh vegetables. Breakfast usually consisted of boiled or fried eggs, cheese, butter, cucumbers and tomatoes. Always served with delicious fresh bread. We also had the chance to try petulla, which is traditional fried dough eaten with jam or cheese.
For our midday trail fuel, we had picnics with bread, cheese, sausages, hard-boiled eggs and vegetables, which we put together in the mornings at the places we stayed. Dinner was always the culinary hit of the day. There was always a warm soup starter, followed by a family-style spread of fresh salads, roast potatoes, rice, steak or baked chicken.
Best of all, every dinner concluded with a traditional dessert like revani, which is a sponge cake dipped in sugar syrup. So it’s moist and very moreish! There were two vegetarians travelling in the group, and there were always plenty of options for them. If you’re vegan, it might be trickier, as there is a lot of dairy, so I’d say bring additional protein just in case.
What were the accommodations like?
All of our accommodations were clean and cozy, even those located in highly remote areas with basic facilities. The hosts were incredibly welcoming everywhere we went. Since I was travelling alone, I was grateful to have my own room on our first and last nights in Shkodër at Hotel Tradita. This is a stunning boutique hotel housed in an authentic Ottoman mansion dating back to 1694. Once we moved into the mountains, the rooms and bathrooms were shared. We stayed in traditional wooden cottages, where there were rooms with two to four beds. For the couple, our guides managed to accommodate them in a private room or their own cottage when possible.
What was the best wakeup spot on the Peaks of the Balkans trail?
I think my favourite wakeup spot was at Samel’s cottage in Bajrovića Katun, Montenegro, on day four. These gorgeous wooden cottages are in the middle of a hilltop meadow, enveloped by pine forest. The feeling of sipping hot coffee next to a crackling fireplace while looking out over the rolling hills and meadows below is truly priceless.
Are there luggage transfers every day?
Yes, even though we walked in some remote spots, there are luggage transfers every day. And on day four, when we walked from Dobërdol to Babino Polje, our luggage was transferred by horse! We didn’t actually see them on the trail because they probably took a different trail.
What was your highlight moment on the Peaks of the Balkans?
I think it was the Karanfili ridge walk that takes you alongside Mounts Popadija, Mount Talijanka and Volushnica, on day five. You get superb views of the ridge’s rugged karst towers and it really was breathtaking. Everyone in the group felt the same way too. Another highlight was our final dinner together in the garden of Hotel Tradita in Shkodër. Gathered there after completing the trek, we spent the evening reminiscing and sharing the wonderful memories we had created together.
Can you give your top reasons for doing this small group tour?
First, the interaction with fellow hikers makes it very special. Secondly, the cultural insights from our guides were invaluable. And last but not least, the information that we got from them about the peaks, swimming spots, and perfect rest stops was superb. Last but not least, this Peaks of the Balkans highlights itinerary is carefully crafted to skip long, monotonous stretches of dirt roads using short van or 4×4 transfers. I also like the fact that it’s just six days of hiking. This is the optimal length for me, because I head into the mountains not to test my physical limits, but to truly immerse myself in nature, culture, and environment. We also have a longer 12 day small group tour.
What about other sections of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail?
The Kosovo sections of the Peaks of the Balkans Trail are spectacular and notably quieter, as many hikers bypass this portion of the route. Having completed two of the Kosovo hikes a couple of years ago, the ridge hike to Mount Hajla remains a personal highlight.
Any other tips for walking the Peaks of the Balkans Trail?
The trip is graded as moderate level, starting with an initial two to three hour hike, while the remaining days average between six and seven hours on the trail. I highly recommend bringing trekking poles. The terrain is rugged and rough, with steep descents on loose, rocky paths. If you don’t want to pack them, you can hire them in Shkodër, and I organised that in advance. I’m usually a one pole walker, but on this tour I hired two, and the guide taught me some good techniques, especially for the long descents.
For more stories about Katya’s adventures, read Meet the people who know the place: Katya in the Balkans and Taking on the summit of Mount Olympus. And for more information about the Peaks of the Balkans Trail, we have a special guide here. We also have a wide array of other Peaks of the Balkans holidays and please don’t hesitate to chat with our adventure specialists.
