You won’t go hungry in the Balkans after a day of hiking or cycling in some of Europe’s most dramatic landscapes. Given the terrain in many of the countries, the food is usually fine mountain fare. More often than not alcohol is on the menu, as are an array of herbal teas to solve aches and ailments. Food and drink does vary by region, of course, whether you’re toasting the end of a trek in Bosnia-Herzegovina with glass of Žilavka wine or tucking into a meze of Montenegrin pršut on a picnic, the local version of prosciutto ham.
We asked our in-house Balkan expert, Katya Panchenkova, to recommend her favourites in each of the regions that she knows so well. Think of them as your starter course, as we leave you to discover the rest on your journey.
“Culinary traditions in Balkan countries do overlap with one another. We have many of the same dishes, but often with slight differences in each country. First and foremost, the Balkans are meat-eating countries and, one of the most common things to try is the different varieties of ćevapčići (or ćevapi), which are grilled sausages, in each country. There are also plenty of pickled vegetables and delicious dairy products, but here are some of my favourites to feast on”.
Albania
Petulla are traditional fried dough fritters very typical of Albania and they come in many variations. Just like bread, they can be eaten both sweet with honey or jams (fig, plum and other fruits) as well as savoury with a feta-style cheese or vegetables, and they are often eaten for breakfast.
Bosnia-Herzegovina
Begova čorba is a type of chicken soup that you will often come across on our Bosnia-Herzegovina tours. Traditionally served as a warm starter, the main ingredients are chicken and okra, various root vegetables and it’s thickened with sour cream and eggs.
Bulgaria
A traditional vegetarian dish in Bulgaria is called mish-mash, which is a version of scrambled eggs mixed up with Bulgarian white cheese, or sirene, and peppers. It’s a family classic, many with their own variations. Mish-mash is served with toast or bread, and can be served for breakfast or lunch.
For wine, I particularly recommend the Mavrud red, which has been produced in Bulgaria since ancient times. The birthplace of Mavrud is the area around today’s city of Plovdiv in the Western Thrace wine region, which is part of the Thracian Valley.
Croatia
Crni rižot is a Croatian go-to for me, although it does take some getting used to, as it looks strange at first. It’s a black risotto made with fresh squid or cuttlefish which give it its colour, although other seafood such as mussels or clams are often thrown into the mix. It’s very popular in coastal konobas, or tavernas, such as on our Jewels of the Dalmatian Coast tour, or this Island-hopping walking holiday.
Greece
Moussaka, if you don’t know it already, is a baked casserole made with minced lamb, layers of sliced aubergine, sometimes potato and loads of creamy sauce. It actually originated in Turkey and its name comes from the Arabic musaqqâ, which means cold or dipped in liquid. With no shortage of rich olive oil this name is apt, and also it can be eaten cold and popped into your backpack for a sturdy picnic lunch on one of our walking holidays in Greece.
Kosovo
Šarski sir is one of my favourite tastes of Kosovo. It’s a salty cheese originally made with sheep’s milk, and it’s one of the country’s oldest cheeses. It’s often infused with wild herbs typical of the Šar Mountains of Kosovo, which is where the name came from. To accompany it, the leading wine producing area is the Rahovec Valley, also known as Orahovac, which you explore on the last day of this Kosovo hiking holiday. Time your trip for the autumn to catch the grape harvest getting into full Kosovan swing.
Montenegro
There are various cured hams in Montenegro, but one of my favourites is Njeguška pršuta, a variety that originates in the Njeguši region. The place to buy it is the former royal palace town of Cetinje, where Njeguška pršuta is king. Njeguši is also famous for its cheese, which is key to the Montenegrin diet, with village varieties at every turn of the road.
North Macedonia
Burek is a traditional pie found all over the Balkans, but the North Macedonian one is one of my favourites. It’s made by layering sheets of buttered filo pastry with a combination of eggs, yoghurt and white cheese. It is eaten traditionally for breakfast and is a great option for packed lunch during one of our hiking or cycling holidays. It also goes really well with a savoury yoghurt drink called ayran.
Romania
Ciorbă de fasole is a hearty soup for hikers, made with white beans and vegetables such as onions, red peppers, celery and parsley. Also, Romania may not be as famous as New Zealand for its wine, but it actually produces more. So don’t miss out on Romanian grape varieties Fetească and Tămȃioasă Romȃnească (Romanian Muscat) – both white, and Fetească Neagra, a full bodied red which is the oldest Romanian grape variety. Delicious with local cheeses, especially the sheep’s cheese made in traditional ways, and often seen hanging out to dry in rural areas.
Serbia
In Serbia, pljeskavica is a flat, minced beef burger, which can also be made from pork or veal, but it’s the local seasoning that makes it Serbian, with paprika always part of the mix. It’s served in a fresh local pita bread, called lepinja. Throw on kajmak cream and a few pickles, then wash it down with a local Jelen or Lav beer for a classic Serbian experience.
Slovenia
Blejska Kremna Rezina is a specialty of Slovenia’s Lake Bled area, and definitely something I crave with coffee after a day of hiking or cycling in the Julian Alps. It’s a vanilla cream cake with a golden, crispy base and it’s just one of many pastries you’ll find in Slovenia. One of my favourite foodie spots is in Ljubljana’s Odprta Kuhna (Open Kitchen) market.
If you’re hungry for more, we have some more foodie blogs to tempt you with, such as Best food in Scotland, Best markets in France as well as our Best wine routes in Europe. And if you’d like to delve deeper into Balkan culture, you may also enjoy our blogs on Bigging up our Balkan holidays and Getting to know the Peaks of the Balkans Trail.
