The island of Corsica, or La Corse, which lies 170km off the French mainland is, in many ways, like a natural kingdom all of its own, its colossal peaks towering over the Mediterranean. The island is 8,680km², and its mountains boast 21 peaks over 2,000m, giving it the merited nickname, Mountain in the Sea. The celebrated long-distance GR20 in Corsica is like an aristocratic artery running through its own kingdom, and it certainly is the crowning glory for worshipful hikers. At 180km, the GR20 is also considered one of the toughest of the GR routes in France, but you are rewarded with some of the country’s most exquisite elevated landscapes, coastal panoramas and Corsican cultural heritage. Read on and see if you’re ready to walk the Corse.
Why is the GR20 in Corsica particularly tough?
At 180km through a lot of groan-inducing granite, with elevation gains of up to 1,000m some days, and some pretty dramatic descents, this is a seriously strenuous hike. The walks are also long, between 6-9h a day, sometimes more. In addition, as this tour only runs between June and September, Corsica can be crispy by that time of the year, so you have early starts to beat the heat, and some sweaty soul (and sole) searching along the way. However, as well as detailed routes, maps and apps, you have 24h phone assistance on our self-guided tours, and expert mountain leaders on our guided ones. In addition, you have GR20 camaraderie, landscapes of a lifetime and truly star trek. You just need to be totally trip fit, and we mean really fit, practise safe hiking and have a good head for heights.
Do I have to do the GR20 in one go?
No you don’t, you can break it up into a north or south section. If you do the complete GR20 it takes 14 days, whether you do it self-guided or guided. What is different about these two versions is that the self-guided tour starts in Bavella in the south and finishes at Calvi in the north of the island. And the guided version goes in the other direction, walking from Calenzana in the north to Conca in the south. The tougher sections are in the north, and so if you want more time to acclimatise and warm up at the beginning, go for the self-guided version. Or break the GR20 into sections, as you can choose between the GR20 South and the GR20 North, both heading in a northern direction and taking eight days.
Highlights of the GR20 in Corsica
Did you know that the iconic red and white stripe markings that jump out at you on a GR route in France are hand painted by volunteers called baliseurs? They are veritable trail blazers, with their pots of red and white paint and plastic templates to ensure that the markings are précis. Along the GR20 in Corsica, they clamber over cols and push up to plateaus to paint the way, and here are just a few of the sublime spots below where you will see where they have made their mark. You can see the baliseurs in action on the GR routes in France in this lovely video.
Aiguilles de Bavella
The village of Bavella gets your GR20 tour off with a bang, as this is where you spend your first night, and it’s also home to one of the most famous landmarks on the island – the Aiguilles de Bavella (1,855m). These are ravishingly red granite pinnacles known as the Bavella Needles in English. They attract a lot of daytrippers in cars, but you get the sunset and sunrise view in silence from the gîte where you spend the night, from which you also get to ascend closer towards the granite pinnacles of Acellu, Ariettu and Vacca.
Pointe des Eboulis (2,607m)
This is the highest point on the GR20, and you have plenty of time to build up to it if you’re taking on the complete route, as you trek up there on day 13 of a 14 day tour. This is also one of the longest continuous ascents of the trail, trekking and scrambling up 1,200m to reach this ridge. This is the point where summit seekers head on to Monte Cino (2,706m), the highest mountain on Corsica, but this is not part of the GR20. But you certainly get a good view of it from Pointe des Eboulis as well as Corsica’s second highest peak, Monte Rotondo (2,622m). From the top of Pointe des Eboulis, you have a similarly steep descent along rough rocky terrain to wooded slopes and streams of Haut-Asco, one of three Corsican ski resorts.
Coscione Plateau
This is the largest plateau on the island spread over 50km2 and you come to it quite early on if you’re hiking the complete GR20, or the southern section. This day of hiking starts with an ascent to the ridge of Monte Alcudina (2,134m), and then you descend to this vast plateau which is at 1,500m in the highlands of Alta Rocca. The plateau feels wonderfully wide and wild after some of the other rockier treks, with grazing sheep, horses and wild pigs on grassy meadows, as well as streams and waterholes that are perfect for cooling off those feet in.
Hike from Petra Piana to Camputile Plateau
This is not only one of the best hikes of the GR20, but for us it’s one of the best hikes in France. Starting out at an altitude of 1,842m from your campsite at Petra Piana Refuge, you trek up to a ridge with a superb view up to a lunar-like landscape and out towards the island’s capital, Corte, in the distance. You also take in some glacial lakes such as Lac de Melo which you contour around, or Lac de Capitello which you can see from Bocca alle Porte, a mountain pass at 2,200m.
Refuge de Ciuttolu di I Mori (2,000m)
This is the highest mountain hut in Corsica and, although you don’t sleep there, you do get to trek up there and take in its much-loved location. There are few better picnic spots on the GR20 than here, between the two peaks of Capu Tafunatu (2,335m) and Paglia Orba (2,525m), the latter considered one of the most beautiful peaks in the Monte Cintu massif. It’s a steep ascent to the refuge, but you follow the River Golu which means that there are some sublime spots along the way for a cooling dip.
Calvi
Calvi, which is capital of the Balagne region in the north, is a bit of a culture shock at the end of the GR20, with its chic, yachty vibe, but its beaches are bliss after the arid treks of the mountains. It’s worth extending your trip here, however, for some much-needed hydrotherapy and even retail therapy, as there are many traditional artisans selling their wares here. In addition, you stay in a hotel here which, after mountain refuges and gîtes, feels like Christmas.
Where do you stay on the GR20?
The GR20 is not only for hardcore hikers, but also for those who don’t mind sharing and caring along the way. Although the first and last nights are in hotels, after that it’s hut to hut or gîte to gîte. This type of hiking is for those who don’t need frills on their forays into nature. Nature is beautiful enough without needing crisp white linen and a Chardonnay at the end of the day. You will be met with camaraderie and conviviality, however, staying in mixed-gender dorms, with shared bathroom facilities.
One of the mountain accommodations worth highlighting is Relais San Petru Di Verde at Col de Verde (1,289m), at the entrance to Taravo Valley, enveloped by a forest of pine, beech and fir trees. The food is also a Corsican feast of local charcuterie such as prisuttu and figatellu, and plenty of local cheeses, a favourite being brocciu, a Corsican version of ricotta. You have a dorm rather than a tent to sleep it off in, but there are hot showers to wake you up in time for walking in the morning. For more information, see our blog, Staying in a mountain hut on walking holidays.
Should I do the GR20 self-guided or with a guide?
Most of our GR20 tours are self-guided, with the exception of this guided one, which is also open to solo travellers. However, as this is one of our most strenuous walking holidays, many people opt for the guided version. Our self-guided trips are not open to solo travellers, as we believe that safety in numbers on a trek that’s as challenging as this is key. As well as hiking with an expert mountain guide, you have fellow hikers to give you a bit of motivation on some of the tougher sections. Our maximum group size is 12 people.
Best time to hike the GR20 in Corsica
Our GR20 tours are available for travel between June and September. There can still be snow in May and as early as the end of September along the route and there is also less risk of rain after this point and, although starting to get hot, you are trekking to altitudes over 2,000m so temperatures are lower. However, it does get busier in July and it is very hot in August, so you need to start at sunrise really. June and September are better months all round, although days are shorter in September and thunderstorms are less predictable. But the most important thing to remember with the GR20 is that Corsica has its own unpredictable mountain climate, so temperatures can sometimes plunge or soar within hours.
Luggage transfers on the GR20
Part of our service at The Natural Adventure is to offer luggage transfers and the GR20 is no different. However, there are some locations where we really can’t move mountains to move your bags, and on those days, you need to carry your sleeping bag and personal belongings for the nights in mountain huts or gites. For more information, see our blog, Staying in a mountain hut on walking holidays.
Training for the GR20
Being trip fit is key for this adventure and you should never use this holiday as a way to get fit, as you risk injury or simply not enjoying it. We would recommend starting your training at least three months before the trip, but six months is even better. As well as taking on long-distance treks at weekends, including steep terrain, we recommend an hour’s workout in the gym, three times a week with, for example, 20mins on the treadmill, 20mins on the cross trainers, followed by 20mins of core and leg strength exercises. Then you need to double your efforts in the last few weeks, but always take rest days to ensure you don’t injure yourself. You can, for example, increase your gym workout to include 60mins of cardiovascular exercise, including a good circuit of strength exercises such as squats and lunges, four times a week, plus a five hour hillwalk at weekends. As you will be walking with overnight gear, water and food on several days, you need to practise walking with a weighted bag too.
Packing for the GR20
Although it’s likely to be hot, it’s vital to also pack raingear, including a waterproof cover for your day bag, and a liner dry bag to keep the contents dry inside as well. There are a lot of steep slopes, and so hiking poles are highly recommended on the GR20 for stability and safety. Although your luggage is transferred on certain days, you need to carry your own overnight bag on some occasions, so make sure you have one with good pockets for water, or to cater for a water bladder. A first aid kit and torch are vital, as is a phone charger and battery pack. For more information on packing, see our blog, What to pack for a hiking trip.
Staying safe on the GR20
As well as training to get into good physical form for the GR20, if you are undertaking a self-guided version of the tour, it’s important to be on the ball safety wise. From understanding what to do if you need to call a rescue helicopter, to imprinting it on your brain to always carry a phone, battery pack and tell someone where you are going. And also making your first aid kit your best friend. Take time to read our blog, Hiking safety tips in mountain landscapes, as you are always better to be safe than sorry.
Is there a cycling equivalent to the GR20 in Corsica?
Yes there is and it’s a superb 600km cycling route, as you can see on these holidays. The GT20 is considered the cycling sibling to the GR20, taking you along the west coast and through some spectacular inland terrain. Starting in the north in Bastia and ending in Bonifacio on the southern tip, there are some seriously exciting ascents and descents along the way. It also has a longer season than the GR20, running between April and June, September and October, but not in peak summer months.
For more big blogs about big places, you may enjoy the following: Hiking in the Rhodope Mountains, Everything you need to know about hiking the GR131 in the Canary Islands, GR routes in France, Mount Olympus is the ultimate Greek odyssey and Hiking holidays with some of the best mountain walks.
