Our best hikes in Japan

Like so many aspects of life in Japan, walking trails bring with them ancient philosophies, rituals and peace. Walking is often seen as a form of meditation, something to be done slowly and with all the senses alert. Take the Japanese art of forest bathing, for example, shinrin-yoku, which refers to walking calmly through woods so that you can imbibe the natural elements, feel your stress levels plunge, and your endorphins soar. This is why our best hikes in Japan are not to the top of Mount Fuji or Mount Kaikoma. They are day hikes through the sacred landscapes of the Kii Mountains, or snowy landscapes of Hokkaido, to name but a few. They are hikes where you bathe not only in forests, but also in traditional onsens at the end of the day, or stop at a sacred shrine along the way to ponder life, learning and loved ones.

Nachi Grand Shrine and Waterfall, Kumano Kodo Trail

Japan’s ultimate spiritual trail, the Kumano Kodo, has carried pilgrims for centuries across peaks and valleys of the Kii Peninsula, to worship at three magnificent Grand Shrines en route: Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Nachi Taisha and Hayatama Taisha. They are considered sacred mountains, and there are several subsections to the trail. This day hike, which takes you to Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine, features towards the end of the Nakahechi section. You can see why this is a spiritual route from the get go, walking from the picture perfect mountain hamlet of Koguchi, on the banks of the Akagi-gawa River, where you can take a quick dip before hitting the trail.

From here, the route climbs up to Ogumotorigoe Pass, which is one of the toughest sections of the Kumano Kodo, gaining 800m over 5km. But people have walked it for centuries, and you can almost hear the stories emanating from ancient trail stones and paddy fields. Local people call this stretch dogiri-zaka, which translates as ‘body-breaking slope’. But the secret is keeping things slow, before finally getting your descent to Nachi-san, the location of Nachi Taisha Grand Shrine. The icing on the cake is Nachi-taki Waterfall, which emerges thunderously out of ancient forest from a height of 133m. It’s all part of this exquisite and ethereal experience.

Distance: 15km
Walking time: 6-7h

The ethereal beauty of Nachi Grand Shrine and Waterfall on the Kumano Kodo Trail.

Magome to Tsumago, Nakasendo Trail

Traditionally created so that 17th century feudal lords, samurai and traders could transport their missives and minions between Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo), the Nakasendo Trail now has a more peaceful mission. To provide a slow, central mountain route through ancient forests, along ridges and mountain paths with views of the Japanese Alps. The bar of beauty is set very high on day one, when you hike over Magome Pass to Tsumago, one of the best-preserved of the Nakasendo ‘post towns’, known for having welcomed Japanese journeymakers for centuries. It’s a perfect example of the cobblestone paths that are so typical of the trail, ascending and descending gently, through forest and farmland of the Kiso Valley. It’s all very calming and sets the tone for the rest of the trail. The walking time is only three hours, although you lose all sense of time. If it wasn’t for people photographing the beauty with phones, you’d lose all sense of which time you are living in too.

Distance: 8.5km

Walking time: 3h

Forest bathing is bliss on the Nakasendo Trail.

Nagiso to Najiri, Nakasendo Trail

The Nakasendo Trail is like a piece of origami, unfolding layers of more and more beauty every day. This trek, on day two of our walking holiday, starts in Nagiso, at the southern tip of Kiso Valley, much of which is designated as a national forest. You also spend the night before in a traditional ryokan, surrounded by trees that are enveloped in unpolluted dark skies. Which means you awaken refreshed and ready for more forest bathing, mostly amongst bamboo and Japanese cedar, following paved and boardwalk trails that take you past sacred statues and shrines. This 18.5km trail comes to an end at Najiri station, where you take a train to Kiso-Fukushima, bringing the day to a peaceful close at another traditional ryokan overlooking the town, with indoor and outdoor hot spring baths.

Distance 18.5km

Walking time: 6-7h

Historical wooden Momosuke suspension bridge in Nagiso, on the Nakasendo Trail.

Tokushima Walk (Temples 20 to 21), Shikoku Island

This walk is often considered the highlight of our Shikoku Island 88 Pilgrimage walking holiday. An ancient 1,000km trail, connecting 88 Buddhist temples and shrines, our holiday takes you to some of its most sacred and sweet spots. The Tokushima Walk takes place on day three of the holiday, and starts off at Temple 20 Kakurin-ji. Also known as the Temple of the Great Sun, it’s nestled into a valley off the Tokushima rift valley, and is a beauty. From here, the walk to Temple 21 Tairyu-ji is up and down, but with many natural highs, crossing the Nakagawa River and then up through lush cedar forests, on mossy tracks to what’s sometimes called a nansho, or ‘difficult place to reach’.

When you get there, however, you are humbled by the magnificence of it all, and we do recommend taking time to seek out the statue of Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism, while you’re there. Tairyu-ji is also called the Temple of the Great Dragon, a creature that, in Japanese culture, is seen as the protector of mankind and a guardian that shields us from universal dangers. Overlooking the natural wonders all around, you can’t help but feel grateful that someone or something might be looking after it all. You’ll also be grateful that there’s an incredible cable car journey back down.

Distance: 8.2km

Walking time: 3-4h

Traditional Shikoku pilgrims often wear all-white clothing, bearing the Japanese symbols for Dōgyō Ninin meaning ‘two travelling together’.

Shiretoko National Park, Hokkaido

Not only is Shiretoko National Park one of Japan’s most stunning national parks, you get to see it in all its brilliance by snowshoeing there on this winter adventure on the island of Hokkaido. Which we’re allowing ourselves to include as a hike for the purposes of this list, just with different types of shoes attached to your feet! Although this tour is a cultural, self-guided one, there are two guided snowshoeing outings included in the itinerary, and this one in Shiretoko is sublime and perfect for snowshoeing newbies. Spend five hours traversing the white, rugged landscapes on the north-eastern tip of Hokkaido, famous for its mountains, dramatic sea cliffs and wide array of wildlife including brown bears and Hokkaido’s endemic Yezo sika deer. Your destination is Furepe Waterfall, which is usually frozen at this time of year. Depending on the snow conditions, you may also be able to extend this trail to the snow-covered Shiretoko Five Lakes and possibly even walk on drift ice along the coast.

Distance 6km

Walking time: 5.5h