It’s been over 20 years since two young Catalan men started a campaign, partly as a joke, to swap the national Spanish animal of a bull for the Catalan donkey, known as the ruc català or ase català. It had a massive impact, as local people splashed their ass everywhere. And still do. The reason for the campaign was not only to show independence from Spain, but also to distinguish themselves from the power and force of a bull, and reflect the Catalan identity as being more peaceful yet strong-willed. Given that many of our best hikes in Catalonia follow ancient donkey trails, keep the ruc català in mind as you ramble. You may need some strong will in parts, but you will definitely find peace. And plenty of Catalan spirit.
Our top five best walks in Catalonia
Ventosa i Calvell refuge, Aigüestortes National Park
The full name is Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park and although it’s the country’s only national park in Catalonia, it’s a veritable fiesta of fine natural features, with the central Pyrenees taking centre stage. On day five of our walking holiday here, you trek up to Ventosa i Calvell refuge at an elevation of 2,215m, where you also stay the night. Another example of a place that’s just too good to leave. Starting out at Cavallers Dam, you follow the waterfront along a path peppered with granite rocks, then through high pastures known as Riumalo, where cattle look on curiously and streams appear at just the right moment to cool you down. The last stretch follows a path alongside Barranc Llastres ravine up to the refuge, which overlooks Estany Negre (Black Lake), and has views out to several 3,000m plus peaks.
After a mountain air-infused sleep, you have a glorious circular trail to follow from the refuge. Walk through rugged granite landscape to the more soothing waterscapes of Travessani and Estany de Monges glacial lakes. From here you continue up to Port de Rius (2,475m) mountain pass. More lakes and luscious views follow at Estany de Mangades and Port de Colomèrs, from which you get views over Cirque de Colomers on the north side of the national park.
Trek to refuge distance: 5.5km
Hiking time: 3h
Circular trek from refuge distance: 8.5km
Hiking time: 4h
Begur to Llafranc, Camí de Ronda
It’s hard to choose just one day on the Camí de Ronda, as every headland brings another little bit of heaven. However, we’ve chosen this one because we not only love the start and end points but also some of the ascents and astounding views. Start in Begur, where you have spent the previous two nights, so you’ve had time to acclimatise to this rugged and ravishing coast. Then leave the Old Town and medieval castle behind to head south, clinging to the coast, where every up and down brings a new reveal of teal.
One of the breathtaking spots on this trail is the coastal village of Tamariu, where swimming off the sandy beach or nearby rocky inlets is dream territory. More rambling reverie awaits as you traverse the aptly named La Musclera Llarga headland, which leads to Cala Pedrosa, where you’ll want that second dry swimsuit. It’s at points like these that you realise no wonder the Camí de Ronda was once a smuggling path. Because, if you could steal a bit and hide it away in your memory bank forever, you would.
When you’ve picked your jaw back off the ground, head to San Sebastián lighthouse which has everything going for it. Stunning marine heritage combined with mountainous natural heritage, with the High Pyrenees keeping an eye over the sea just as the light does. The day comes to a close in Llafranc, a white-washed seaside town that was a favourite of both of the controversial Salvador Dalí and Catalan writer Josep Pla. All in all, it’s a surreal and utterly sublime day of walking.
Distance: 13.7km
Hiking time: 4-5h
Montserrat to Sant Jeroni, Montserrat Natural Park
When you explore Montserrat Natural Park’s pointy peaks and wayout ridges, you quickly see where Gaudí got his inspiration, with caves and colossal natural structures informing his architectural work. For our favourite hiking day trip, we’re choosing day two of this four day hiking holiday, which takes you to the summit of Sant Jeroni, the highest point of the Montserrat Massif at 1,236m.
This is a circular trail, starting out at the iconic and mesmeric monastery, Santa María de Montserrat, then heading south to Creu de Sant Miquel, an iron cross that marks one of the best views of the monastery complex. From here, you continue along forested paths through rocky terrain that’s typical of the region, as far as the Funicular de Sant Joan building, where you’ll meet people who’ve taken the shortcut. Then there’s one final stretch up to the top, which involves a bit of a push and, ideally, the help of walking poles. And finally the summit, with views of the massif’s magnificence, Lleida flatlands and the Pyrenees in the distance. Hallelujah for one heck of a hike.
Distance: 13km
Walking time: 5h
Gratallops to La Morera de Montsant, Montsant Natural Park
We’ve chosen this day hike because it combines both the viticulture of the Priorat Wine Region and valleys of Montsant Natural Park. It takes place on day three of this five day walking holiday and starts out in Gratallops, a small hilltop village at 320m with views worth getting up early for. Especially as you may have spent the evening sampling some of its fine wines, with some world-renowned cellars located here. Not surprisingly, therefore, your walk starts along vineyard-lined paths, continuing into more rugged hills and alongside terraces of olive groves as far as the ancient village of Escaladei.
Take a break to visit the ruins of Santa Maria d’Escaladei Monastery, in the foothills of the Montsant Mountains. Escaladei is also home to the Cellers de Scala Dei, Priorat’s oldest winery. However, you’ve several kilometres to go, so you may want to wait until the end of the trail before you sample its fruits. Especially as it’s now a steady climb through wooded slopes and on rocky paths to La Morera de Montsant (743m), a quiet village on the edge of the park. Montsant translates as Holy Mountain, as it was considered sacred land by monks and hermits. When you sip your wine from the hotel and take in the views of the steep cliffs, gorges and valleys, you’ll see that they chose well.
Distance: 15km
Hiking time: 4-5h
Costabona (2,465m), High Pyrenees
This trekking holiday takes you into the High Pyrenees, with eight days of the most exquisite elevations and remote villages. The highest of these is Costabona (2,465m), on the border with France, and it’s an optional summit trek on day four. In general, the hikes in the High Pyrenees are through the oak and beech forests of the Alta Garrotxa region, following remote and rugged trails. On this one, you start out from the mountain village of Setcases, where you’ve spent the previous night, so you’ve had time to breathe in this Pyrenean paradise. Following a circular route, the trail heads through shady fir and beech forest, passing mountain streams to then emerge into a more wild, open granite landscape. With peaks in every direction. And then finally the peak of Costabona, where you have views into France on one side and Spain on the other.
The descent starts along a ridgeline, after which you slowly make your way back down to Setcases, keeping an eye out for wildlife such as eagles, griffon vultures and chamois which still thrive in this area. Although Setcases is a small mountain village, with a sublime location, it also has plenty of bars to quench the thirst of keen adventurers, and restaurants to fill your boots.
Distance: 9km
Hiking time: 5-6h
These are just a few from the great menu of mountains and marine environments to explore in Catalonia. For more ideas, you may enjoy our Expert guide to cycling and walking in Catalonia and Best time to go to Catalonia blogs. To explore elsewhere in Spain, check out the following blogs: Top national parks in Spain, Our best hikes in Spain, Camino de Santiago routes and Best cycling routes in Spain. If you’d like to support the conservation of the ruc català, see here, and for any more information, please don’t hesitate to contact our adventure specialists.
